June 2026

Not just an estuary, but one of the few coastal fresh water lakes in South Africa

We’ve been to the small fishing village of Elands Bay quite a few times. It’s one of our favourite spots on the West Coast to pitch our tent and gaze out over the Atlantic Ocean.

Elands Bay sits at the foot of the Bobbejaansberg

In this post, however, we’re not going to show much of the sea, but rather take you to the Verlorenvlei Estuary. This is right on the doorstep of Elands Bay, and after the recent heavy rains the area received, the estuary is almost full to the brim. When given sufficient rain inland it fills and sometimes even overflows into the sea at Elands Bay. Since this is not so common (considering that this lake was almost completely dry a few years ago), Verlorenvlei Estuary called us for a visit.

Verlorenvlei Estuary

Even though we have been to Elands Bay many times, we have never taken the dirt road that runs parallel to the estuary. On this visit, we followed the tarred road and then took a left turn to the Verlorenvlei Heritage Settlement to see if the dirt road is passable. From here we had the chance to see the estuary up close and also how much water there is currently. What a beautiful sight.

Fence under water – proof of how much water the estuary (and lake) recently got

Reflections in the water

Verlorenvlei Estuary as seen from the main tarred road

The estuary is a bird paradise. We read earlier that there can usually be more than 5,000 birds, and sometimes even up to 20,000. We saw and heard lots of birds when we stopped to enjoy the scenery. There were quite a few pelicans among the reeds, and we watched them for quite some time before they swam to the other side of the estuary.

Pelican on the water

On the way to the dirt road, we saw a sign with the words ‘Provincial Heritage Site’. This is known as the Verlorenvlei Heritage Settlement and some of the buildings here are from the late 18th century. The houses were built with sun-dried clay bricks, white-washed with lime which was probably made from local seashells. They also had thatched roofs and dung floors. These houses are known as ‘langhuise’ (long houses) and are recognised as being significant and unique remnants of the once thriving hamlet on the shores of the estuary.

Verlorenvlei Heritage Settlement

Dirt road leading to the heritage site

‘Langhuis’ from the 18th century

Another ‘langhuis’

While we were admiring the ‘langhuise’, a man stopped next to us. Berto asked him if we could drive on the dirt road, and he said he had just unlocked the gate and that we were welcome to continue on the road (*). There were some nasty ditches and large rocks – probably due to the recent rain. We would suggest that this road should be driven with either a 4×4 or a vehicle with high ground clearance.

(*) There is an information board at the gate that is almost completely faded by the sun, but we could vaguely make out the words ‘Nature Reserve’ on it. We intended to go to the museum at Elands Bay after finishing the route to find out if there is an entrance fee, but it was closed when we got back. Maybe, for any future travellers, it’s a good idea to make a stop at the museum and ask if there is an entrance fee (and the condition of the road).

The Atlantic Ocean visible from a high point

We could also see farm fields

Apart from the stunning views of the lake, we also saw lots of tiny flowers along the road. During spring, this area is covered with wildflowers. Most of these flowers are probably hardy shrubs and succulents. After a long, dry summer, the recent rain has turned nature into beautiful shades of green.

Sorrel

Colour in the field

As I mentioned earlier, the road was pretty rough in some places. However, we drove slowly and stopped often to look at the lake.

Following the dirt road along the lake

Verlorenvlei is one of the largest natural wetlands along the West Coast of South Africa and one of the few coastal fresh water lakes in the country. The lake is approximately 13.5km long and 1.4km wide.

Beautiful lake at Verlorenvlei

After about an hour of driving, we reached an area with natural grassy field and here too we could see how high the water had risen after the rain – some of the trees were halfway in the water.

Lake at Verlorenvlei

Trees in the water

The grass was covered with these mushrooms

Shortly after we stopped at the grassy area, we came across a closed gate. It wasn’t locked, but we started to wonder if we might have to turn around to return to Elands Bay. However, there was a beautiful farmhouse on the other side of the gate, and we decided to stop there and ask if we could continue down the road.

When we stopped, a man came out and introduced himself as Johan Smit – he greeted us as if we were long lost family. Johan, his wife Leona, and Johan’s 93-year-old mother were just on their way to another place across the lake that belonged to them, but they invited us to have coffee and cookies with them first. I shouldn’t be surprised, but South Africans’ friendliness always blows me away.

Beautiful farmhouse

While Berto and Johan were having a chat, Leona showed me her garden. She told me that she grew up here and after many years, they decided to come back. When I look at the view from their front porch, I can understand why they came back – it is stunning.

Muishoekberg – from the farmhouse’s front porch

Verlorenvlei lake – the view from the porch

After about an hour, we followed the vehicle of the Smit family. It was a good thing they were home, because there was one farm gate on our way to the main road that was locked (they had a key). We would definitely have had to turn around and drive back if it wasn’t for our kind-hearted new friends.

The last stretch next to the lake

Looking back over the lake

This is where the Verlorenvlei lake ends

We were back on the main road within 10 minutes after leaving the farmhouse and followed Johan and Leona to their place on the other side of the lake where we said goodbye and thanked them for their kindness.

At Elands Bay, we drove to another high point where we could look out over the Verlorenvlei Estuary again. After driving all the way around the lake, we now have a much clearer picture of how big it is (and how much rain must have fallen in order to fill the lake).

Verlorenvlei Estuary

Verlorenvlei Estuary

On this photo the reedswamp of Verlorenvlei is clearly visible

The West Coast is known for its beautiful sunsets and delicious seafood, and it’s no different here at Elands Bay. The sunset and dinner were both amazing. We’ve eaten at the ‘Wit Mossel Pot’ before and really enjoyed their food.

Spectacular sunset at Elands Bay

Delicious seafood at ‘Wit Mossel Pot’

It’s astonishing how rain can transform nature, turning ordinary landscapes into shimmering spectacles of renewal and beauty. Verlorenvlei Estuary is currently a sight to behold and definitely worth a visit.

Verlorenvlei Estuary in the early morning light