May 2026

From green farmlands to the turquoise ocean

Although I had severe back pain, I was still looking forward to our ride back home after our visit at Arniston Hotel. Berto made my seat in our ‘bakkie’ quite comfortable with a soft blanket and cushions (almost like a bird’s nest) and I made sure there were enough painkillers, hot water bottles, and bean bags on hand.

We decided to take a different road back home – a road that would first take us through green farmlands and then towards the ocean on a route known as the Cape Whale Route.

Kassiesbaai:

Our first stop was literally within a minute of leaving Arniston Hotel. Kassiesbaai, a quaint fishing village in Arniston, was declared a national heritage site in 1986. Its narrow streets are flanked by thatched and stone cottages.

The best way to explore Kassiesbaai is on foot. Some of the houses are decorated with fishing paraphernalia and there is even a small restaurant and art shop. If it weren’t for my back injury, we would have enjoyed exploring Kassiesbaai – but alas, not this time.

Characteristic houses in Kassiesbaai

Before we could drive any further, we first had to stop to fill up on diesel. I am usually the one who quickly runs into the shop to buy snacks for the road, but since I could barely walk, Berto took care of it – it was quite interesting to see what he found in the shop.

Drinks for the road

We decided to follow the tarred road from Bredasdorp to Elim. Originally a Moravian mission station, Elim was founded in 1824. To reach Elim, we drove past lovely green farmlands. Winter hadn’t really started yet, but this area had already received good rain.

Green farmlands on the way

Elim:

The town of Elim is also, just like Kassiesbaai, a national heritage site. To explore this town, it’s best to park at the end of the main street and then stroll through the town. But yeah – you know. So, we stopped at the old Moravian church at the top of the street and Berto walked around to take a few pictures (while I enjoyed some of the snacks in the ‘bakkie’).

Arriving at Elim

Old Moravian church (1865)

Public service centre and the Royal Cafe

There are several unique wineries in the area around Elim. This is the southernmost ward of wine production in the Western Cape and apparently the climate here allows grapes more time to ripen and develop a balance between acidity and sugar levels – which means good wines. We didn’t stop at any wineries but enjoyed the scenery on the way.

Wine area around Elim

Baardskeerdersbos:

Baardskeerdersbos (or B’Bos as the locals call it) is surrounded by fynbos-covered hills, farms, and valleys. The name Baardskeerdersbos literally means ‘Beard Shaver’s Forest’ and is inspired by a myth that a small spider-like animal (arachnid) pads their nests with beard hair sheared from sleeping men. Although it’s a very small town, tourists like to come here to visit art galleries, markets, and boutique wine cellars.

Driving through Baardskeerdersbos

From Baardskeerdersbos it is just 16km/10 miles to the coast and we could already see the high sand dunes from afar.

High sand dunes in the distance

Small seaside towns like Pearly Beach and Franskraal are situated a short distance from the main road and are very popular in the summer months when tourists usually flock here. We didn’t leave the main road and continued along the sea to the next coastal town, Gansbaai.

Gansbaai:

The name Gansbaai comes from a flock of Egyptian geese that used to hang out at a freshwater fountain that has been revamped in the harbour. This fishing town’s real claim to fame is its reputation for being the Great White Shark Capital of the World.

Gansbaai Harbour

While whales can be spotted from April – December here, it’s shark-cage diving that Gansbaai is most known for. It’s described as a thrilling experience that offers up close encounters with some of the ocean’s most magnificent creatures. I think I’ll stick to hiking though.

Somewhere out there sharks are lurking

From Gansbaai to the next seaside town, Hermanus, the road turns slightly inland before taking us back to the coast.

We will soon reach the Kleinrivier Mountains in the distance

Approaching the Kleinrivier Mountains

Hermanus:

Hermanus is the largest town in this region and definitely deserves its own post. This town is best known for whale watching between August and October, and during the last week of September, the annual Whale Festival is held in Hermanus.

Kleinriviersvlei, on the outskirts of Hermanus

Hermanus is very popular among tourists, especially with the presence of museums, galleries, restaurants, plenty of accommodation, the 12km Cliff Path, lagoon, as well as the Fernkloof Nature Reserve. We plan to visit Hermanus for a weekend – hopefully in whale season – and then we will tell you all about this beautiful town.

View of Walker Bay at Hermanus

Just outside Hermanus is the world-renowned and prestigious 18-hole Arabella Golf Course. It integrates perfectly with the natural surroundings, offering breathtaking views of the Bot River Lagoon and the Kogelberg Mountains.

Arabella Hotel and golf course

We drove past other small places like Onrus and Hawston before arriving at the next lovely seaside town of Kleinmond.

Kogelberg mountain range close to Kleinmond

Kleinmond:

If Hermanus is perhaps a tad too busy for your liking, then Kleinmond is a great alternative. The Bot River forms a lagoon and empties into the sea near Kleinmond, while the Palmiet River also flows into the sea at Kleinmond. The main road (R44) that we followed, runs through the town and forms Kleinmond’s main street.

At the entrance of Kleinmond

Quirky cars in the main street of Kleinmond

The next town, Betty’s Bay, is just 12km/7.5 miles from Kleinmond. On the way, we still had the majestic Kogelberg mountain range on our right. It is truly one of the most beautiful routes to drive – mountains on one side and the sea on the other.

Kogelberg mountain range between Kleinmond and Betty’s Bay

Betty’s Bay:

Betty’s Bay is home to one of three land-based penguin colonies in South Africa. The Stony Point African penguin colony is the main attraction in Betty’s Bay – a place we visited a long time ago. Another place we have also visited before is the Harold Porter National Botanical Garden. We did one of our last hikes here in preparation for our Camino Frances in 2017. This time, however, hiking was definitely not on our list to do, but rather lunch in their restaurant. (Please note that garden entrance fees apply to all visitors, even those visiting the restaurant only).

Harold Porter National Botanical Garden in Betty’s Bay

The Garden Restaurant and statue at pond

Berto had a cold Appletizer, and I ordered my favourite hot drink, Rooibos Cappuccino. The Spinach & Feta Quiche with salad was also delicious.

Lunch at the Harold Porter National Botanical Garden

Sweet smelling fynbos at the botanical garden

After we enjoyed lunch in such a beautiful garden, it was time to drive the last stretch back home. By this time my back was quite sore from the long sit but fortunately, I could (slightly) forget about that while we drove through this beautiful landscape.

Leaving Betty’s Bay behind

Pringle Bay:

Pringle Bay is a relatively undeveloped settlement of mostly holiday houses. Yet, there are a few restaurants here and you have an amazing view over False Bay. This is also another great place to spot whales from the shoreline any time from May to December.

Pringle Bay

Clarence Drive:

In my opinion, apart from Chapman’s Peak near Hout Bay, which we have written about on our blog a few years ago (read here), Clarence Drive must be one of the most magnificent coastal drives in the greater Cape Town area.

View of False Bay from Clarence Drive

Clarence Drive stretches over 21km/13 miles and follows the wild turquoise Cape coastline all the way until you reach the naval town Gordons Bay. This tarred road is in excellent condition and during sunny weekends you’ll find tourists, locals, bikers, and cyclists here. There are plenty of parking spots along the road where you can pull over to admire the beautiful views.

The road will take you around that corner of the Hottentots Hollands Mountains in the distance

Looking back from where we came

Strand:

When you reach Gordons Bay, this will be the end of the Cape Whale Route. If you stick close to the ocean, like us, Strand will be the last town from where you will have views over the ocean.

View over False Bay from the beach at the seaside town of Strand

The Cape Whale Route gave us everything – from green farmlands, stunning mountains to an endless blue ocean, and even a botanical garden lunch. We hope to return when the whales arrive.