May 2026
Farm Fields and Stormy Skies: The road to Arniston’s shores
As I mentioned in the previous post (read here), we went for a few days to the beautiful seaside village Arniston to celebrate our 30th wedding anniversary at the Arniston Spa Hotel – and, as you know by now, this didn’t quite work out the way we hoped.
Still, there are a few posts that I would like to share about the time we spent in the Overberg and along the coast. As usual, we’ll first take you on a road trip from the farm where we are staying to Arniston.
Here in the Southern Hemisphere, we are currently at the beginning of winter (it almost feels as if we skipped autumn). One day it was still warm summer temperatures and the next day it was cold and we had rainy weather. However, this did not dampen our spirits, and we enjoyed the freshly ploughed farm fields and beautiful skies while on the road.
- Please keep in mind that I took most of these photos while Berto was driving. The quality of the photos is therefore not very good, but the day was so beautiful that we just really want to share it with you.

Leaving the farm in cloudy and cold conditions
Arniston is a small seaside village on the coast of the Overberg region and close to Cape Aghulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa. It’s about 211km/131 miles from Cape Town.
For the first half of our road trip, we drove on the N2 highway. Fortunately, we left on a Sunday and the road wasn’t too busy.

The N2 highway towards Somerset-West
Sr Lowry’s Pass:
The N2 highway is the main route between Cape Town and the Garden Route. Just outside Somerset-West is the beautiful Sir Lowry’s Pass – a mountain pass that crosses the Hottentots Holland Mountains between Somerset West and the Elgin valley.

Sir Lowry’s Pass (the summit is at 460m)


Driving on Sir Lowry’s Pass
Elgin Valley:
When you go over Sir Lowry’s Pass, the road descends into the Elgin Valley. This valley is an outdoor paradise and offer activities such as zip lining, canoeing, fishing, and hiking.
Here you will find the small towns of Elgin and Grabouw. Elgin is known as one of South Africa’s top apple producers, while Grabouw forms part of an important agricultural hub in the Overberg region.


Descending into the Elgin Valley from Sir Lowry’s Pass

Mountains in the distance – ideal for zip lining and hiking

Autumn colours next to the road
Peregrine Farmstall:
Most of you know that we love a ‘padstal’ (farmstall). Peregrine Farmstall just outside Grabouw is a very popular stop for travellers. Here you will find fresh produce, a bakery with the most amazing artisanal loaves and pastries, as well as a deli and restaurant.

Early morning at Peregrine Farmstall
We stopped here for a takeaway drink and something light to eat while we continued driving. I bought a lovely bouquet of proteas for Berto’s aunt. She lives in Bredasdorp (a town on our way) and invited us for lunch. We also couldn’t resist buying a box of Elgin’s delicious apples.

Colourful bouquet of flowers


Coffee and freshly baked pancake stalls

Biltong – traditional South African cured meat
To ward off the cold, I bought hot drinks – coffee for Berto and a Red Cappuccino for me. Meanwhile, Berto walked over to the Deli and bought one of Peregrine’s popular pies for him and a sandwich for me and then it was time to hit the road again.



Something to drink and eat on the road
Houw Hoek Pass:
We still had to drive about 45km/28 miles on the N2 before we could turn off onto the R316 that leads to the coast. This section of the N2 highway is beautiful. Just after Peregrine Farmstall, there is the beautiful Houw Hoek Pass that takes you down to the coastal plain and into the Overberg.


Scenic views from Houw Hoek Pass

Farms in the Overberg


Beautiful skies

Driving through farm fields
Caledon:
Caledon is located in a primarily agricultural region. Most agricultural activities involve grain production with a certain amount of stock farming. This town is also known for its rolling hills and yellow canola fields in spring.


Caledon’s main street

Farm fields outside Caledon


Beautiful stormy skies on our road trip
Napier:
Just 57km/35 miles from Caledon, is the village of Napier. This small town was founded in 1838 and has a blend of century old cottages and modern houses. The NG Kerk (Dutch Reformed Church) is a well-known landmark located in the main street.

NG Kerk (Dutch Reformed Church) of Napier


Entering and exiting Napier
Bredasdorp:
Bredasdorp is very close to Napier – only 17km/10 miles further. This town is the main economic and service centre of the Southern Overberg region in the Western Cape. Bredasdorp is also home to the Shipwreck Museum, which tells the stories of the 150 shipwrecks along the nearby Agulhas reef – the only museum of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere (we will tell you more about this museum in a future post).

On our way to Bredasdorp
We had an enjoyable ‘braai’ at Berto’s aunt’s house. His cousin, wife, and their son also joined us. It’s always nice to see family again after a long time – the older we get, the more we appreciate times like these.
Arniston:
From Bredasdorp, it’s just 24km/15 miles to Arniston. This was our destination for the next couple of days where we’ve stayed in the Arniston Spa Hotel.

On our way to Arniston
Fun fact:
Arniston is the only town in South Africa that also has a second name, Waenhuiskrans, an Afrikaans name meaning ‘wagon-house cliff’. This refers to a local sea cave that is large enough to accommodate a wagon and a span of oxen. This place was high on our list to visit, but because of my injury we could not do the hike. (I promise we will go back someday to show you how beautiful a cave it is).

Narrow street in Arniston, with Arniston Spa Hotel just around the corner
As you can see from the photos, it was a cloudy and cold day. But it really doesn’t matter what the weather conditions are when we go on a road trip, for me it is always enjoyable (well, except maybe when it’s in pouring rain).
Wonderfully moody skies, Corna. Are you well again now? xx
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Although I love the bright blue sky of SA, there is just something beautiful about a cloud-covered day. I’m a little better every day, thank you Jo. After my visit to the doctor earlier this week, he confirmed that I have a pinched sciatic nerve … which can take up to 12 weeks to heal 🫣. Patience and handfuls of pills every day!
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Patience…. I don’t have! But you don’t have much choice xx
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Looks lovely. Tell Berto that we just finished a week of diving in Sharm El Sheikh, Egypt it was amazing. The coral is very healthy and there are millions of fish. It was so good we plan to go back next spring Maggie
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Oh my word Maggie, he’s going to be sooo jealous when he hears this (he’s at work, so I can’t wait to tell him tonight). Did you dive on any shipwrecks or just at the brightly coloured coral? Isn’t Ras Mohammed National Park near Sharm El Sheikh – Berto saw the most beautiful coral there. I also don’t think he would mind going back there! And he would definitely agree that diving in Sharm El Sheikh is far better than our road trip 😂.
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We just did the coral dives, next trip we’ll do the wreck I think. We stayed in Sharm, but may try Dahab next time, and maybe even Hurghada. Maybe we’ll meet you there 😊
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We went on a liveaboard boat from Hurghada in 2019 (which was supposed to be for a week until Covid broke out …). Who knows, maybe we’ll meet each other there one day 😉.
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I agree about road trips. Any weather except rain/snow. Plus I’d avoid pubic holidays although up here even those aren’t significant. That drive looked great and the moody sky added to the picture. I hope riding in a vehicle is not too painful and that you are beginning to heal.
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I always enjoy your road trips (and have seen it can be just as beautiful when it had snowed … but I doubt whether we will be so comfortable driving in snow 😉). You’re right, the moody sky was beautiful – and it changed almost every half hour. Driving to Arniston was surprisingly comfortable for me, but I had a lot of pain when we returned three days later. Thank you, I still have quite a bit of pain, but every day is better than the previous one.
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That looks like a very scenic drive! And I can’t believe how empty the road is 😮 You mentioned it was a Sunday – our prettiest drives are always busy at the weekends as are our main roads!
By the way, how is your back doing? I hope you’re seeing some improvement?
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I always laugh when you point out that our roads have so little traffic 😁. We might just always be lucky that the roads are so quiet (or maybe we just know what time is best to hit the road). It’s a very scenic route – especially in winter when the farm fields are green.
I’m doing a little better every day, thank you Sarah. I never thought a pinched sciatic nerve could be so painful … but with the help of painkillers I can now sleep for a few hours at night, and next week I’m seeing a physio. The doctor predicts it could take between 6-12 weeks to fully recover (if I behave myself) … so, I’ve pulled a few thick books from the bookshelf that have long been waiting to be read!
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Yes, do look after yourself and don’t push things too quickly 🤗
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You captured so many beautiful photos, Corna. I love those dramatic, dark clouds, high contrast, and atmospheric conditions. The scenery along the way is wonderful. I hope you are feeling much better after your injury. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Thank you, Aiva. It’s difficult to take photos from a moving vehicle, but the skies were just so dramatic that I couldn’t help but take the camera out 😊. I feel a little better every day – I just need to learn to be more patient with myself!
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Take care 😊 xx
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What a lovely drive, Corna, with diverse and stunning scenery. I hope your back injury heals much more quickly than the doctor said!
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Although we drove half of our road trip on a main route, it was surrounded by beautiful mountains (and with little traffic it was a great day on the road). Thanks Tricia, my back feels a little better every day – I do, however, have to make sure to take my pain pills regularly (on the positive side, I am already taking fewer pills, so hopefully that’s a sign of improvement).
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Your car pictures actually turned out pretty well. Mine are usually super blurry! Looks like a scenic drive despite the gloomy skies.
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Thanks Linda – my problem is always my own reflection in the photos while we drive 🫣. It’s a very scenic route – despite the fact that we drove half of the road trip on the main highway (and on a very cloudy and cold day).
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Another familiar route. Though I have only been to Cape Agulhas once and was rather disappointed. I do remember a Christmas at Gansbaai.
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I thought you would know this route. We visited Cape Agulhas and will soon write a post about our visit there. Ha, and I remember a Christmas at Struisbaai (that Christmas the wind almost blew us and our tent away 🫣). We drove through Gansbaai on our way back – there will also be a post about our road trip back and you might then recognise a few more places.
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What a lovely road trip! I also take a lot of pictures while my husband Cat is driving😍 I can’t wait to hit the road again, as the weather is getting better every day..
Sorry to hear about your back pain, hope you feel better soon! xx
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I love taking photos while we drive (although, of the 100 I take, I can probably only use 20 for our blog 😂). I’m glad to hear your weather are getting better – here in SA, winter arrived early and it has been raining for several days now. Luckily, I also know that we usually have a few weeks of sunshine during the winter, so it’s not too unpleasant a thought that winter is here. Thank you very much, Christie, I feel a little better every day – patience is the key!
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Looks like a lovely drive with all the scenery and dramatic skies. I really hope your back is healing OK, it sounds absolutely horrible. Sending a hug.
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The dramatic skies did not disappoint, but can you imagine how picturesque this ride is when the sun is shining and the sky is blue! Thanks Hannah, I’m taking it one day at a time – at least I was only awake three times last night (that’s a good improvement on the previous four weeks 😉). So, hopefully that means I’m on the road to recovery!
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Beautiful road trip.
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Despite the fact that about half of this route is on the main highway, the scenery is quite amazing – and the moody sky provided extra drama 😉.
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