August 2024
- Road Trip
It’s still Winter here in the Southern Hemisphere, but we couldn’t put off a camping weekend any longer. Having seen the Great Kei Bridge on a previous visit (read here), we wondered what beautiful places are beyond that bridge.
We have read about the amazing views in the Barkly East area – a small town in a mountainous area just south of Lesotho.
It’s a four-hour drive from East London to Barkly East and then another hour (on dirt road) to our amazing camp site on a farm at the foot of the Witteberge. You might think that it’s too far to drive for just a weekend – but you’ll understand why we were so keen to go there when you see the incredible views.
- Today we’re going to show you just how beautiful the road was and then conclude with the discovery of a lovely place in Barkly East.
- In the next post we will take you to our camp site – unique and probably the camp site with the most beautiful view we have ever seen. (You can read about that here).
- And in the last post it’s going to be hiking time. We were surrounded by incredibly beautiful mountains and rock formations – just wow! (You can read about that here).
After four hours of driving we finally arrived at Barkly East. We were tired from concentrating on the busy road where many loose animals roam. But then, for the last hour our tiredness instantly disappeared – we were suddenly surrounded by incredible beauty.

Loch Bridge near Barkly East


Views of the Kraai River from the bridge
The Loch Bridge was constructed by Joseph Newey and completed in 1893. It is one of the last stone arch bridges in the country which is still in use today.
After driving over this beautiful old bridge, we stopped and took photos. It was also a good time to stretch the legs. However, we had barely started driving again, when we just had to stop again to view the Kraai River from a viewpoint on the Kraai River Pass.

View of the Kraai River
On a hill along the river we could see railway tracks and also a railway bridge over the Kraai River.

Railway tracks on the hill

Closer look at the railway bridge
There are quite a few farms on this route and I was very excited to spot lambs along the way.

Crossing a small stream

Cute lambs
The views of the mountains were beautiful. After stopping for the umpteenth time to take photos, we decided not to stop again if we wanted to reach our camp site before sunset.

View of the Witteberge Mountain Range
The moment we turned left at the sign to the farm Balloch where our camp site was located, an absolute wonderland of majestic mountains unfolded in front of our eyes.

Entering the farm Balloch
We were surprised to see snow on the mountain in front of us – Berto and I immediately looked at each other and we had the same question: “Did we bring enough warm bedding for a tent weekend”?

Snow on the mountain in the background
There was no doubt in our minds that this farm, in the middle of the Witteberge, is picture perfect. Although it is only 3.5km to the camp site, we drove for a very long time before we reached it, because we stopped almost every 100m to take more pictures.

Mountains on the farm Balloch

Farm dam (with that snowy mountain again)

That view!

Winter landscape
We couldn’t take enough pictures of the mountain with the snow on it. And even though it was just a little snow, it’s something we don’t see often.

Mountain with snow in the last light of the day


Rock formations

Balancing rocks
With about 500m left to our campsite Berto engaged our bakkie into 4×4 – it was now a bit of a bumpy ride.

Almost at our camp site
And that’s where we’re going to stop for now. Next week we will show you just how beautiful and unique this camp site is.
…
Moving on to Sunday and we leave Balloch with heavy hearts.


Egyptian geese at the farm dam
The drive back to Barkley East was just as beautiful as when we drove here two days ago. Of course, we had to stop again at the Loch Bridge one last time.


Loch Bridge

Kraai River
We only had coffee and tea before we left our camp site and went looking for a place in Barkly East where we might get a sandwich and coffee. Besides getting exactly that, we also discovered a gem of a place.
Royal Manor Hotel (Barkly East):
The Royal Manor Hotel is a beautifully renovated 1867 historic building full of character. It has high ceilings, lovely chandeliers, wooden floors and 14 rooms where guests can stay.

Royal Manor Hotel
We ordered take away toasted breakfast sandwiches and coffee. While we were waiting for our food, we walked through the beautiful reception area. The décor is lovely and there are various products for sale.

Entrance to the Royal Manor Hotel


Seating areas

Old staircase leading to the upper rooms


Various products for sale

Lovely décor

Front porch of the hotel
While we were standing outside in the warm winter sun, a local walked past and saw us standing with our camera. He posed cheekily while Berto took a few photos of him.

Local posing on the empty roads of Barkly East
With our delicious sandwiches and hot coffee, it was time to drive the long way home. We could have stayed here much longer!
Fortunately, we can relive our weekend again when we show you our beautiful camp site in our next post. See you there.
It is very beautiful and rugged and so different from other places you’ve taken us to. Can’t wait to see the hike. Magg
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We don’t often go into these mountainous parts of our country – this is where the most famous mountain range of South Africa is, namely the Drakensberg Mountains. Don’t hold your breath too much though, our hikes in the mountains don’t come even close to your adventures … but I can tell you this, it was beautiful.
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The scenery with snow capped mountains looks beautiful Corna and definitely worth the lengthy drive to get there.
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I’m glad you think so Marion too! The mountainous area has a beauty of its own and if there is snow on it, it’s even more special. When you see our camp site in next week’s post, you’ll also understand why we have to go there for longer next time!
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Beautiful views. Question – have you visited Lesotho? I have only ever gone around the ‘base’ of the country, and closest was staying in Underberg, Drakensberg. Whilst you are in the E. Cape they might be areas you would like to explore as it seems quite amazing.
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No, this trip was the closest we’ve ever come to Lesotho and a proper visit to this part of our country is firmly on our bucket list. But to be able to do this, we need more time than just a weekend! However, you’re right, while we are in the Eastern Cape, we should definitely make an effort to at least explore some parts of Lesotho.
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The scene is stunning, with a clear blue sky, a powerful mountain, and fragile trees. I love it. Wishing you success on your hike and looking forward to more photos and stories 🙋
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Blue skies in winter are always beautiful, right? It’s almost bizarre to think these bare trees, are going to be lush green and full of leaves in a month or two. It’s an amazing landscape … one we couldn’t get enough of!
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Right🙂i assume that during the summer this scenery will be even better and on the fall even more stunning. 🙂 Beautiful!
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Definitely a ruggedly beautiful location. The variety of colors in your photos is quite spectacular! I’m looking forward to reading more about your time there.
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The colours of the rocks are beautiful, right? I also think the intense blue sky helps that the photos are so bright. I’m sure you’re going to really enjoy the rest of this short series – it’s going to be rugged mountains galore!
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Beautiful views – no wonder you stopped so often to take photos! And I’m glad you did, because now we get to enjoy those views too 🙂 And I like the look of the Royal Manor Hotel – you know me well enough now to realise that I’ll be happy staying there while you go off to camp 😆
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Although we would have loved to stop even more, we didn’t want to drive the dirt road in the dark (especially one that we don’t know). Ha, you’re right Sarah, I thought the hotel would be more to your liking. Luckily for you, there is also a beautiful cottage on the farm, so you can have the best of both worlds … you can sit around the fire with us at our tent and then you can sleep in the comfort of your own cottage 😆.
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Oh that does sound perfect!
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I can see why you kept stopping for pictures. What a beautiful day that was. It looks as if it was quite cold so I hope you did not freeze! Look forward to reading about it.
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It was a really lovely day – the blue sky actually made us forget it was Winter. But the moment the sun set and the wind blew from that snow-capped mountain in our direction, it was cold! But what’s more fun than standing by a warm camp fire and seeing countless stars in the sky in such a beautiful place?
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You’re right, Corna, the scenery is absolutely beautiful, I think we’d have been stopping every few hundred metres too. I look forward to your next piece!
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We have camped quite a few times in mountainous areas, but these mountains (with their sandstone colours) were just so much different from what we were used to. I always think I like the ocean and beach more … until I see something as beautiful as these mountains!
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Can’t wait to see/read more. It looks like a stunning spot! Mel
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That campsite (and view) was definitely the most unique we’ve ever seen … we just wanted to sit there on our camping chairs all weekend and enjoy it. I’m actually surprised we managed to go for a (brief) hike!
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Doing nothing is also a very good way to spend a weekend! Good for the soul and mind.
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Sounds like it was worth the drive to get there. How lovely to have such beautiful blue skies to enjoy the views and scenery. Looking forward to seeing your campsite.
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You’re right, the sunny day was perfect for enjoying the scenery. I’m sure you’re going to like our camp site – it’s really something we haven’t encountered before on our travels.
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What a beautiful drive to your campsite! Of course you had to stop for pictures. Are there a lot of animals that get hit by cars on the side of the road? That was a great shot of the staircase and mirror.
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When we go away for a weekend, the camera is always nearby. And I’m so happy about that because this road was one of the most beautiful we’ve ever driven! Regarding your question on the animals: You wouldn’t believe how street wise these animals are Diane! They even walk across pedestrian crossings (when it’s there)! They usually stand just by the side of the road, but one never knows when they suddenly decide to walk across the road (especially goats). That’s why we can never drive fast on those roads between the villages. And now that I think about it … it rarely happens that these animals are hit by cars. So, I’m guessing there’s some sort of understanding/agreement between drivers and animals 🙂! That photo of the staircase was taken by Berto while I was busy shopping (of course) and I only saw it once we got home – it’s one of my favourites of the hotel!
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What a wonderful agreement! Lol
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Amazing place, those views over the mountains in that perfect light is just epic. Well worth a 5 hour drive to get to 🙂
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Yes, the late afternoon sun adorned the mountains in beautiful colours! And this was just a taste of what awaited us upon our arrival at the camp site. Definitely worth the 5 hours of driving over and over again!
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That is a nice weekend you had. The scenery is gorgeous as the hotel 😍.
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You’re right, it was a great weekend. The hotel is quite a gem in the small town of Barkly East … I wish we had more time to sit there and enjoy our breakfast. Maybe next time?
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Your long drive really paid off. You took absolutely stunning shots of those mountains with lingering snow, the Kraai River, rock formations and the stone bridge. My favourite photo is the one you captioned: ‘Winter Landscape”. Royal Manor Hotel, what a wonderful discovery. I hope that you were warm enough during the night.
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We don’t usually drive that far over a weekend, but when we drove back home on the Sunday, we agreed that it was worth it over and over again! That stone bridge and hotel was a wonderful surprise on our road trip (that’s why we love road trips so much … you never know what you’re going to discover). Well, that photo of “Winter Landscape” served its purpose – it was really cold!
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