January 2024
On the first day of the new year, the weather was perfect for a day at the beach – the sun was warm and the sky blue. But a thousand other people (or so it felt) had the same idea and the beaches around Langebaan were abuzz with tourists.
So, we decided to drive a circular route on one of the back roads near Langebaan. Armed with a few bottles of cold water and snacks we headed towards the dirt road at *Kapteinskloof.
- In our last Throwback Thursday post (#50), we also took a quick drive through Kapteinskloof. To read more about that day, click here.

Tar road changes to dirt road
Kapteinskloof (it translates to ‘Captain’s Gorge’) is a scenic dirt road near the small town of Piketberg. This 17km/10.5 miles road runs through a beautiful ‘kloof’ (gorge). There is a short mountain pass over the Skurweberg Mountains with breathtaking views from the top. Since it is such fertile land, there are many farms on this road where orchards, potatoes, rooibos, buchu (*) and grape vines are grown.
→ What is buchu? Buchu is an herbal plant made from a group of aromatic herbs native to South Africa. (It is a natural anti-inflammatory and an excellent herb for disinfecting the urinary tract during bladder infections).

The start of Kapteinskloof if you come from Piketberg
It’s a good thing we had a few bottles of cold water with us (and an aircon in our ‘bakkie’), because when we drove into the gorge, the temperature rose to 40°C (104°F).

A sweltering day in Kapteinskloof
As we followed the road, we could see several farms. Some of these farms also offer accommodation from where one can go on several hiking trails.

One of many farms in Kapteinskloof


Remote cottage in Kapteinskloof
Almost at the top of the mountain pass, we stopped at a big rock. We got out and walked around while taking pictures of the rock formations. We could also see a few more cottages from here. We sat down in the shade of the rock and drank our water and eating fruit and ‘biltong’, while we enjoyed the silence. Coming to stay here for a few days must be so peaceful.

A road leading to one of the cottages

The rock where we stopped

Interesting rock piles


Another remote cottage

Cottage at the foot of high mountains

The road on which we travelled through the gorge

Another cottage


Closer shot of the same cottage as above
The top of the mountain pass is called ‘Patatdraai’ (translated to Potato Corner) and the 360° views are stunning. From here you can see farms, as well as high mountains in the distance. During the winter months, this area is various shades of green, but as we are in the height of summer, the colours now varied from brown to gold.

View over the farms from the top of the mountain pass
The descent is quick and easy to follow. There are about nine fairly sharp bends before you reach the valley again. In the valley, at one of the farms, we saw a large pile of hay bales. This reminded me a lot of one of the stages on the Camino Frances that we walked in Spain in 2017.

Hay bales
It was a lovely road to drive and even though it was very hot, I think it was a much better option than being on a crowded beach.

The end of our dirt road
Of course, we ended the day by making a fire. And then we opened an ice-cold bottle of Pinot Noir Chardonnay. We definitely kicked off 2024 on a high (and hot) note!

A bottle of old wine on a scorcher of a day
Here’s cheers to 2024! Mel
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Thanks Mel – Cheers to you too!
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Lovely landscape.
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Thanks Rupali. It’s beautiful among the mountains – even on a hot summer day!
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I agree.
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Certainly looks a remote area, perfect for enjoying a hot New Years Day.
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Kaptainskloof is not on a busy route that’s for sure. Yet, I don’t think the farmers feel isolated (it might suit them that way). And to end the day with a cold bottle of wine on a hot summer day … yeah, that was perfect indeed.
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Definitely better that a crowded beach! A bit warm for me although I never minded the dry heat of a desert. I think it must be spectacular out there at night and a short stay in one of those cabins would be wonderful. I suppose the people who live there year round must be self-sufficient for the most part? It would seem a long way to the shops! A nice cooling libation after a hot day. Ah !
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Yes, I would also rather deal with a dry heat than the muggy heat we are now experiencing here in East London. Oh yes, can you imagine how incredibly beautiful the Milky Way must look in Kapteinskloof … one day we’re going to experience that! And you’re right Carolyn, because it’s mostly a farm community, they’re pretty self-sufficient. But then, the nearest town with little shops isn’t that far away – maybe about 40km/24miles. As for that cold bottle of wine – it was like winning the lottery on a very hot day!
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Hi I was so pleased to find this blog quite by accident! We love that valley and you are correct; the night sky and the silence is incredible. The eastern past of Kapteinskloof is a private nature reserve. The cottage you featured is ours and we would love to host you for a night or two, to see those stars for yourself.
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Wow, you must be very lucky to have a cottage in this beautiful valley … I hope we haven’t disturbed your privacy by taking photos of your lovely cottage. We wondered where one could inquire about sleeping over here for a night or two to explore the area a bit more. Do you rent out the cottage? Because then we’d love to do that when we’re back in the area. (We have a house in a Langebaan, but my husband is currently working on a project in East London. We fly back to the West Coast every now and then and would love to contact you when we’re there). Thanks for your comments – it’s always nice to hear from people who live in or know an area we just drove through. Regards, Corna & Berto
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Hi no worries at all, you did not disturb our privacy. There are 2 Banghoek cottages near the farmstead that are on Air BnB but none out there in there in the bundus where we are- which is really the beautiful part. At the moment we only let to a small select group that we’ve met over time (when we are not using it ourselves) because it is an ecologically sensitive area and we do not want people there who will make a noise, scare away animals, use non-biodegradable products in the shower etc just because ‘they paid’ – you get the picture! This may have to change in future – we’ll have to wait and see. But in my experience, people who love the Lord so openly as you do, are usually very respectful of other people’s homes. The cottage is simple but really lovely and well equipped for the extreme climate: we have a small splash pool for summer and a wood fired hot tub (with a view) and fireplace for winter!!
Please do contact me when you are back in the Western Cape 🤗
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Thank you so much Rachel, we are definitely going to contact you when we get back to that beautiful part of our country. And yes, it saddens us that people don’t treat nature with respect — it’s the one place where we feel closest to the Lord. I have to say, that hot tub sounds like a winner. (Oh, and by the way … your last name, is that Weiss? Ours is Wiese 😊).
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We are often mispronounced as Wiese! Looking forward to meeting you.
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I guess you don’t hike there in the middle of summer! Beautiful, rural landscapes. Maggie
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You’re right Maggie, no hiking here during the summer months. But I think it’s the perfect place for star gazing in the summer — we might stay here a night or two next time to watch the Milky Way.
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What a beautiful spot and so much more peaceful than an over-crowded beach! I loved seeing the interesting rock formations in particular 🙂
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Although I really love walking on the beach, we just didn’t feel like being around so many people. To see so many interesting rock formations are always the most beautiful to me when we drive through such rugged places.
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I do like a happy ending, Corna!
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Me too Jo … me too 🙂!
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Reminds me of that long-ago crazy camping trip in Sudan. It was very very hot and one day we came to a town where, of all things, they had Bulmer’s cider and it was cold! That was a celebration!
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A lovely way to start the new year away from the crowds.
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We thought so too Marion. Even though it was very hot, at least we weren’t surrounded by hundreds of people (and could quietly enjoy the beautiful nature).
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Good you could escape the crowds at the beach but the temperature doesn’t sound like fun. We’re getting mid 20s only so far this summer so hoping for some days in the 30s to come before summer ends. At least school is back and the tourists have gone back to Melbourne leaving the Mornington Peninsula to us locals again. Cheers, Mark
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It was definitely hotter than we expected … but we were glad to escape the crowds! Yes, here in SA the long summer holidays are also over and the new school year has just begun. So, now everything is back to normal again (and the first month of the year almost over). Enjoy having the Mornington Peninsula to yourselves again 🙂!
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It’s just beautiful!! And it looks SO hot, I can’t wait to feel some sun again but this looks seriously scorching. That wine is much needed 🙂
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It was definitely warmer than we’re used to in the summer, but if you’re not doing an activity (and know there’s a bottle of cold wine waiting at home), then it’s not so bad! Anyway, any day in sunshine is a good day!
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Good call in escaping the crowded beach for the even more beautiful areas. Indeed; pretty as a picture – that you took! Looks like a stunningly beautiful place. A perfect location to welcome the new year. Thanks for sharing Corna!
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To be honest, it was nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of New Year’s Day. And you’re right Tricia, it’s an (unusually) beautiful area. We’d love to spend more time here in the winter — maybe in one of those cottages (while star gazing).
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Such beautiful and sunlit photos, Corna. I love those 360° views from the mountain pass as you can see over the pastures and all the way to the glistening horizon without anything obstructing your view – truly stunning. Thanks for sharing, and have a wonderful day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Thanks Aiva. Yes, the views from the top of the mountain pass were lovely. We’ve seen these exact views in winter and summer now and both are equally beautiful. It’s amazing how far you can see, isn’t it? Enjoy your weekend.
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Another wonderful route to explore on the West Coast. It looks awesome
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This is a lovely route to drive on the way to Elands Bay if you want to take the back roads from Cape Town. Of course it’s beautiful in winter — then again, the landscape is so green (completely contrary to how it looks during summer).
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That huge rock would have been great to have lunch on top of. I love rock formations like that. I just decided I don’t want to live there, I have been spoiled for my entire life with air conditioning, 104º would melt my body. 🤣 I’m curious, how do they keep the dirt roads so smooth? The few unpaved roads we have in the country is nothing but potholes.
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Yes, I’m not so sure I want to stay there either (even though it’s such a picturesque place), it gets way too hot between the mountains. (You would have definitely melt on top of that rock if you had your lunch there)! I think the roads are pretty well maintained by the farmers of the area because they have to use the road so much. However, this is not the case with all (maybe most) of the dirt roads in South Africa – this past weekend we drove a road that had so many potholes that there was just no way around it!
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The nice weather always has a way of bringing out the crowds. Good call on taking the back roads as well as some cold water. Love the views from the top of the mountain pass.
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It’s usually never that crowded on the beach at Langebaan, but it’s as if everyone decides to go to the beach on New Year’s Day (and even more so, when it’s so hot)! The views in Kapteinskloof are stunning – in summer the colours are brown and gold, and in winter the landscape is decked out in various shades of green. Every season has its beauty, right?
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