June 2023

Part 2 (Final)

To read Part 1, click here.

On our last full day in Hogsback the wind blew gale force! We wondered if it was such a good idea to go out on a hike, but we really wanted to see the Big Tree and more waterfalls. We bought each of us a walking stick at Woltree, the shop opposite Swallowtail where we stayed, and then walked deep into the forest.

Signage to the Big Tree

The moment we entered the forest, it was eerily quiet. It was amazing that we couldn’t hear or feel the wind. Well, it suited us perfectly and we tackled the steep descent of about 1.7 km (1 mile) to get to the Big Tree.

At the start of the forest with trail markers that made it easy to follow the path deep into the forest

Keep in mind that the Tyume Indigenous Forest is easy to negotiate for most of its length, but the entrances (or exits) are quite steep and can be difficult for the not-so-fit hiker.

The trail was on a steep descent

Lovely view at an opening in the forest

For the greater part of the trail you will be traversing indigenous, evergreen forest, referred to as Afromontane Forest (African – Mountain). The cool and moist conditions south of the escarpment give rise so a favourable microclimate for forest establishment. (Source: Department of Water Affairs & Forestry)

Moist conditions lead to fungi and moss on trees

I was glad that we wouldn’t be coming back the same way as it would be a very steep climb to the top … little did I know what was waiting for me on the other side!

Still going down

Interesting tree shapes

Trail markers take us deep into the forest

And then suddenly a very big tree blocked our way. It was the Eastern Cape Monarch, a common yellowwood. It is believed that this tree is estimated to be around 800 years old!

The Big Tree

It is actually impossible to capture this huge tree in one photo or to describe its grandeur. The total height is about 38m (124 feet). When we arrived at the tree, a group of hikers were just getting ready to leave. We had a nice chat with them while we admired the tree. I asked if one of them could take a picture of us in front of the tree and one of the guys said his brother-in-law was a very good photographer – just our luck!

The Big Tree and us (📷 credit: Jan Taljaard)

From here there are a couple of detours to different waterfalls. The Swallowtail, Bridal Veil and Madonna & Child falls are on this route. We decided to hike to the last waterfall, the Madonna & Child Falls, which is 2.4km (1.5 miles) from the Big Tree.

But first we had to cross a small river – over very slippery stones. Just before the river the path is very wet and (with a scream) I landed flat on my butt. Fortunately, it was a soft landing and while Berto had a good laugh, I struggled to get back on my feet.

River crossing

With the river crossing behind us, it was an easy walk to the waterfall. We loved being so deep in the forest. Seeing small things, like ferns growing out of a tree trunk, gave me great joy.

The wonder of nature

Faded trail marker on a rock

After about 45 minutes of walking, we reached a series of short boardwalks that indicated that we were close to the last waterfall. We also saw a small swimming spot and walked down to have a closer look.

Boardwalk and swimming spot

We had to walk back UP to the boardwalk

And then we reached the beautiful Madonna & Child waterfall. The centrepiece of the fall is its namesake. The many rocks at the bottom of the falls are great viewing decks from which to watch the falls.

Madonna & Child waterfall

Madonna & Child waterfall

The rock formation that gives the Madonna & Child waterfall its name

Again, we were lucky that there was another family around and we asked them to take a picture of us and this lovely fall.

Posing at the fall

Berto walked to a darker spot at the bottom of the fall and took a photo of beautiful super white fungi on a tree trunk.

Picturesque fungi

Oh, and then it was a steep 150m climb up a set of rickety wooden steps to the main road! It was actually funny to see two little girls almost run past me to the top while I was huffing and puffing.

The not-so-steep part of the climb

Once out of the woods it was a long walk on a dirt road back to Hogsback. It was probably only about 2km, but after our 2½ hour forest walk it felt much further.

Hiking back to Hogsback via Wolfridge Road

Hotel and river stream

To my delight, the very first building we encountered upon walking into Hogsback was a beer garden! We found a table under the giant oak trees at Hogsback Brewing Company and Berto ordered a big glass of beer and after a glass of lemonade I was happy to order a gin tasting flight.

My gin tasting flight

Just after we arrived at the beer garden, our hiking friends who we met at the Big Tree also arrived. They invited us to sit with them and we ordered a few more beers and cheese platters. It was a lovely afternoon and they invited us to join them later that evening for a ‘braai’ (barbecue) at the place where they were staying for the long weekend. Don’t you just love it when you meet such nice people along the way.

After a lovely hike and time with our new hiking friends, Berto and I walked back to our cottage. There was one more place we wanted to see before we left Hogsback – the Hogsback Labyrinth.

Labyrinth at The Edge

This labyrinth is of a design very similar to a labyrinth found in Chartres Cathedral in France. It is an eleven-circuit labyrinth with a diameter of 29m and a circumference of 91m. The length of the path is 700 m and the distance of the walk to the center and out is about 1.4 km. We walked the 700m to the center but then skipped a few circles to find our way to the edge of the cliff. There are spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and a deep gorge.

Spectacular views from the cliff at the labyrinth

Later that evening we had a lovely time with our new hiking friends around the fire and ended the day with a delicious home-baked chocolate cake that one of the guys had baked.

The next morning, we woke up to a lovely sunrise and packed with a heavy heart.

Sunrise from our cottage The Melody at Swallowtail

And of course, I didn’t forget about our last attraction in Hogsback – the Chocolate Shop!

Fine handcrafted Belgian chocolate

Chocolates to enjoy at home

We loved our stay in Hogsback – exploring stunning hiking trails, seeing big trees, witnessing lovely waterfalls and meeting new friends. I suspect we will visit Hogsback again.

Goodbye Hogsback – see you again