SANTO DOMINGO DE LA CALZADA – BELORADO
After we slept in a full dormitory – we must have been at least 30 pilgrims in one dorm – we once again got up early. Some pilgrims were sleeping in the communal area on couches – due to too much snoring in the dorm (Berto might be one of the guilty snorers 😉).
When we left the albergue, the sun has not even risen behind the mountains and it was bitterly cold … there was frost on the grass next to the road which forced us into our warm clothes – gloves, jackets and buffs. We were expecting a day without any rain and we just needed to hang on for a bit before the sun rises to warm us up.
Early morning frost on the grass – just 1°C and the only way to warm up, is to keep walking. At last, the sun appears with a promise of some warmth
It seemed that a lot of walking would be done close (or next to) the main road today. We would therefore need to look out for traffic and concentrate a bit more on the yellow arrows.
Green fields after we walked through Granon
It was still early morning when we walked through the smaller villages and we only saw a couple of pilgrims along the way.
Quiet streets in Redecilla del Camino (a population of only 150 … + 1 pilgrim in front of us)
A cup of hot coffee each and a shared chocolate muffin in Redecilla del Camino
In Castildelgado, we saw Conchi and Pili and had some fun posing for photos and to catch up on their walk. They even started walking before us this morning and said they struggled to sleep in the noisy albergue last night. Because we started so early this morning, we should arrive even before lunch in Belorado (where we will stay for the night).
Conchi and Pili joined us in Castildelgado – still dressed in all of our warm clothes. It was a chilly day, but fortunately no rain was forecasted
Although we could see the main road, we stayed on wide dirt tracks for most of the time. It was only during the last 5km to Belorado that we walked literally next to the busy main road.
The dirt road next to the main road – Belorado is around the corner
I could hardly put one foot in front of the other as we walked into Belorado. It was a brisk walk today as we were trying to get some heat into our bodies, but it seemed as if I paid the price with 2 new blisters on both my little toes. As we reached our albergue, Cuatro Cantones, the doors were still locked. Berto went in search for cold drinks, while I sat on the pavement in front of the locked doors of the albergue. It was pure bliss to take my hiking sandals and socks off and I moved nowhere for the next hour!
The Camino signs are everywhere
Albergue Cuatro Cantones in Belorado
As the albergue opened their doors, we were very happy with our room that only had 2 bunk beds … tonight the lower bunk bed was my gift! I don’t even think I will be able to get to an upper bunk bed tonight!
Our beds in Cuatro Cantones with a lovely bathroom
Later that afternoon three elderly Korean men arrived and got the room next to us. We saw them since our second day on the Camino and they are such friendly gentlemen. Although they live in the USA for the past 20 years, they don’t speak fluently English, but we could have a decent conversation with them. Berto called them “The three wise men” (they had such a lot of wisdom between them and shared life stories with us that I will always remember).
After we finished our laundry, we sat in the beautiful back yard of the albergue where we had our lunch. There was a bright blue swimming pool and I could just imagine how tired pilgrims cool off in this pool during the hot summer months. It was however a bit cold for us to get into the pool, but the sun was shining and we were enjoying the heat of the sun on our bodies.
A typical Camino lunch: Tomato, cheese, avocado, hard-boiled egg and “jamon” (ham)
The beautiful back yard at Albergue Cuatro Cantones – no, we did not get into the swimming pool!
Late afternoon we explored the town and bought snacks for the next day. I was more excited to see a pharmacy where I could buy plasters for my blisters and pain relieving patches for my leg.
Tonight, we enjoyed dinner at the albergue. Berto had pork chops and chips and I had a delicious plate of seafood paella. After a bottle of red wine, we were ready to dive into our beds.