August 2025

Wild Camping in the Tankwa Karoo

There are few places in South Africa that we will go back to again and again. The Tankwa Karoo is definitely one of those places. The Tankwa Karoo, an arid wilderness, is situated in both the Northern- and Western Cape Provinces of South Africa. Despite its dryness, this area bursts into vivid wildflower displays and rare succulents after the winter rains.

Although it’s still cold, we are now at the beginning of the wildflower season. While we were searching for wild camping spots in the Tankwa Karoo, we happened to come across Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier. The accommodation options are:

  • Glamping Campsites (tented camps),
  • Normal campsites (where you pitch your own tent, equipped with private ablution facilities and lighted by solar energy),
  • Wild camping – a true off-grid experience.

The booking process with Marianka from Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier was very easy and after she sent us photos of the first flowers on the farm, we were ready for yet another adventure. We invited friends, who also love wild camping, to join us for the weekend.

It’s approximately 260km/161 miles from Cape Town via Ceres to Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier, of which 140km/86 miles is on dirt road. It was interesting to see how the views changed from green bushes to almost barren plains.

At the start of the dirt road into the Tankwa Karoo

Halfway, and the bushes became brown

The barren landscape of the Tankwa Karoo

We arrived just in time at the farm to see the sunset. Jean waited for us and drove ahead to take us to the wild camping spot at the foot of the mountain. We had to wait until the next morning to see just how beautiful it really was.

Sunset on our arrival at Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier

Because we knew we would be arriving late, Berto had already prepared our dinner at home the night before. On the menu was Beef Bourguignon (that amazing French stew made from beef braised in red wine). While the men made a big fire, I made creamy mashed potatoes to go with the stew. Don’t let anyone tell you that you can’t eat well when you’re wild camping!

Wild camping fire in the Tankwa Karoo

Beef Bourguignon – at home (left) and at the campsite (right)

We were a little disappointed that it was cloudy and foggy when we woke up the next morning, as we had hoped to see the early wildflowers. However, it was still a beautiful morning with the mist covering part of the mountain. We were now also able to see what beautiful views we had from our wild campsite.

Our wild campsite

Expansive views

Misty cloud over the mountain

We started the morning with a hot cup of coffee and tea and a few pieces of our favourite ‘Ouma’ rusks. However, the rusks weren’t quite enough for breakfast, so I made ‘Mieliepap’. (‘Mieliepap’, a traditional breakfast dish in South Africa, is the equivalent of creamy polenta porridge).

‘Ouma’ rusks and hot drinks

‘Mieliepap’ – a favourite breakfast porridge

While we were enjoying breakfast, the mist began to lift and there were fewer clouds – the day suddenly started to look promising.

The mist disappeared

It was now time to do some of the chores that come with wild camping. Fiela and I washed the dishes, while the men set up our shower. We only filled half of our trailer’s water tank at home (68 liters) and that was enough to give each of us a hot (but short) shower.

Washing dishes in nature is actually quite nice

The men are setting up our shower

Fiela enjoyed the first shower (testing the water with her hand)

Shower with a view

The next, very important, part of wild camping is ablution facilities. Frans placed our ‘porta potty’ in a dry riverbed that was not visible from our campsite. This meant that a shelter was not needed to block off the toilet. If you thought our shower had a great view, then I can only say that our toilet views were even better.

What about this toilet view?

Pretty flowers on the way to our field toilet

With the clouds moving away (and no trees for shade), we set up Frans and Fiela’s gazebo. If you ever go camping, remember that a gazebo is an important camping item – it protects you from rain, sun and wind.

A fancy gazebo

Frans suggested we drive to a nearby dam that they had seen on a previous visit to the Tankwa Karoo. Berto decided to prepare Sloppy Joe at our campsite which he wanted to use as a filling for our lunch jaffles. If you have an idea of what you’re going to eat during a camping weekend, then it’s easy to prep a few meals.

Berto preparing Sloppy Joe at our trailer’s kitchen

Sloppy Joe in the making

On the way to the dam, we saw ‘Gemsbok’ (Oryx) along the road. We also came across a few dilapidated buildings that probably belonged to farmers from years ago.

‘Gemsbok’ (Oryx) in the Tankwa Karoo

Ruins of old farm buildings

Succulents in the field

Oudebaaskraal Dam:

This dam, established in 1969, was previously the largest privately owned dam in the Southern Hemisphere, but is now part of the Tankwa Karoo National Park. Due to the presence of water, there is a good chance of seeing wildlife and birds nearby.

Note: Because this dam is situated in the Tankwa Karoo National Park, you need to obtain a permit from the park to drive to the dam.

Oudebaaskraal Dam

Views across Oudebaaskraal Dam

Road next to the dam

We found the perfect spot next to the dam where we could prepare a late lunch. It was quick to fill the sandwiches with the already prepared Sloppy Joe mixture as well as grated cheese. Berto then made the most delicious jaffles on our portable camp gas stove.

Our lunch spot

Berto preparing jaffles

Jaffles filled with Sloppy Joe and grated cheese – yummy

After enjoying the last jaffles, we packed up and took a leisurely drive back to our campsite. We were lucky to spot a Springbok next to the dam, as well as another Gemsbok (Oryx) close to Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier.

Springbok at the Oudebaaskraal Dam

Gemsbok next to the road

We all had a good laugh at the wording on one of the farm gates on the way to our campsite. It was in Afrikaans and read: “Maak asb die hek toe & stuur groete by die huis” (translated to English: “Please close the gate & send regards to everyone back home”).

A polite request and greetings on a farm gate

Near our campsite, the men dropped us off and Fiela and I walked further in search of wildflowers. We were not disappointed by what nature had on display.

The field was covered in yellow wildflowers

Tiny red flowers

Wildflowers

Our wild campsite

We returned to our campsite relatively late and immediately started another campfire. What we didn’t expect was that nature had something really beautiful in store for us. A spectacular sunset glued us to our camping chairs, and we watched the amazing scene unfolding with wonder.

The beginning of a stunning sunset

The last light of the day on the mountain at our campsite

Clouds made this sunset even more beautiful

An orange glow over the Tankwa Karoo

This was the perfect end to our weekend at Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier. The next morning, we packed up and left only our footprints behind (as one should when you do wild camping). On the way out, we went to say goodbye to Jean. He suggested an alternative route to the main road (R355). We were very happy about that because the scenery was truly beautiful.

Ready to leave Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier

Greeted by two donkeys on our way out

Carpet of yellow wildflowers

We had a wonderful time here

We had hardly left the farm when a few Elands (large antelope) ran across the road. We were amazed to see how quickly these animals could run up a slope. Shortly thereafter, we saw more Gemsboks (Oryx). They ran alongside us for a while until they disappeared deeper into the field.

Elands crossing the road

Gemsbok running next to our ‘bakkie’ (Photo credit: Frans Basson)

The road was mostly in a driveable condition, but there were one or two places where we had to engage low range 4×4. If you drive a high clearance vehicle, you should be fine on this road. But if you tow an off-road trailer like us, you should have a 4×4 vehicle.

One of the more rocky sections

Easier parts of the road

We saw more wildflowers

We decided earlier to have lunch at the famous Tankwa Padstal (farmstall). This quirky place attracts visitors from near and far, and it’s always nice to spend an hour or two here.

Tankwa Padstal

Tankwa Padstal is known for their creative displays

The locals have their own ‘4×4’s’ as transportation

Berto decided that we each deserve a Jägermeister shot because we drove the Tankwa Karoo’s roads without getting a flat tire (something these roads are notoriously known for).

Celebrating our time in the Tankwa Karoo with Jägermeister

As always, the Tankwa Padstal’s food was delicious. We spent almost two hours here and consider this farmstall as the best place to end any trip in the Tankwa Karoo.

Lunch at Tankwa Padstal

We really enjoyed our wild camping experience at Tankwa Lifestyle Farm Zoute Rivier. The owners made an effort to ensure we found the farm easily and were always available for any inquiries. Will we go back there again? Absolutely yes!!

Note:

You may remember that I mentioned in our previous post that we added something new to our camping gear. Have you ever heard me complain about a cold night in this post? No? Well, that’s because Berto surprised me with a 12V Bed Warming Pad just before our Tankwa Karoo trip – gone are the cold bed on winter camping weekends! This warming pad works from the 12V battery system in the trailer – ideal for off-grid camping. In my opinion, this is the best addition to our camping gear so far!

12V Bed Warming Pad