May 2025

A geographical wonder & quirky campsite

Helmeringhausen was such a wonderful place to camp (read here). We wouldn’t have minded spending another night here, but it was time to move on.

After a blissful night in our rooftop tent – with no wind at all – we woke up early the next morning. With a hot cup of coffee and tea in hand, we enjoyed the beautiful sunrise from our campsite before started packing up. Today we had to drive 284km/176 miles to our final destination of our Namibian road trip.

Sunrise at Helmeringhausen

The dirt road was once again in very good condition. We stopped a few times to look at the big puddles of water next to the road. The south of Namibia has definitely received more rain than usual this season and the sight of these puddles must put a smile on every farmer’s face.

Another great dirt road in Namibia

Puddles of water next to the road

For the next 150km/93 miles we only found one small village before we got to a tarred road which we followed for about twenty minutes. At the sign “Fish River Canyon/Ai-Ais” we turned right and drove the last 80km/49 miles on dirt road again.

We almost forgot what a tar road looks like

Heading towards the Fish River Canyon

Naute Kristall Distillery:

We drove past the Naute Dam and then over a low water bridge before we saw a place that looked like a ‘padstal’ (farm stall). It turned out to be the Naute Kristall Distillery where award winning gin are produced – well now, that sounded like the perfect place to stretch our legs before continuing on.

Low water bridge close to Naute Kristall Distillery

While we took a seat at one of the outdoor tables, we could see large date plantations. According to the receptionist, dates are produced here on a commercial scale. The fruit is suitable for human consumption, but does not meet the requirements for retail and is therefore used for the distillation of alcohol.

Date plantations at Naute Kristall Distillery

Although it was already past noon and a gin tasting session sounded very appealing, we still had about an hour’s drive to our accommodation and a further thirty minutes to the Fish River Canyon. So, we decided to rather enjoy their popular carrot and pineapple cake along with a cup of rooibos tea. However, we didn’t let the opportunity pass to buy a bottle of their famous Devil’s Claw NamGin to enjoy later.

Outside seating area (with a bird taking a bath)

Carrot and pineapple cake – yummy

While we were enjoying our cake, a cyclist from The Netherlands chatted with us. He was on his way from Cape Town to Kenya on his bicycle. He asked if we knew of a place nearby where he could inflate the tires of his bicycle to ride more comfortably on the dirt road.

Berto said that there is no place nearby, but that we have a compressor with us for when we might need it for our ‘bakkie’ tires and that we can help him quickly. I could see the guy was quite relieved (and probably also surprised that we had a compressor with us).

Helping a guy from The Netherlands to inflate his bicycle’s tires

Fish River Canyon:

Since it was already late in the afternoon, we decided to drive past our accommodation and visit the Fish River Canyon first. At Hobas, the entrance to the Ai-Ais Fish River Canyon National Park, we paid an entrance fee before buying takeaway sandwiches at the restaurant to eat on our way to the canyon.

Inside the restaurant at Hobas

We followed the dirt road to the Fish River Canyon Lookout, which is the main viewpoint. This is the best (and probably most photographed) view over the expanse of the canyon.

Fish River Canyon

The Fish River Canyon is the largest (by volume) canyon in Africa and the second largest in the world. It covers 5,900 square kilometers, is 160km long, up to 27km wide and 550m deep in some places. From the viewpoint you can see the sharp river bend, known as Hell’s Corner.

Fish River Canyon

Hell’s Corner

Rugged landscape at the Fish River Canyon

Fish River in the gigantic ravine

Incredible natural formation

At the main viewpoint of the Fish River Canyon

From the main viewpoint, it is 3km/1.8 miles to the start of the famous Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail.

Walking over to the start of the Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail

This hiking trail is a very popular route and is 85km/53 miles long, which will take you about 5 days to complete. You need a permit to do the Fish River Canyon Hiking Trails, and there is officially a maximum of only 30 people who can do it each day. It is self-guided, but you must be in a group of at least 3 people for safety due to the challenges of the geographical terrain. You’re required to show a medical certificate that says you’re fit enough to hike. This is partly because there are only two emergency exits along the route, other than the start and finish points. (So, if you did run into trouble, it’s a huge effort for rescuers to come and get you).

Start of the Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail

While we were walking back to our ‘bakkie’, a group of 5 hikers came towards us. They were ready to take on the 5-day route and with their heavily loaded backpacks, they looked quite prepared for what lay ahead of them. This is one of those hiking trails that has always been on our radar – hopefully one day (but not today).

Hold on to the chain for support while scrambling down the steep slope

It was already late afternoon after our visit to the Fish River Canyon and time to drive the 40km/24-mile-long dirt road back to our campsite for the evening.

Dirt road to our campsite, Canyon Roadhouse

Canyon Roadhouse:

This quirky roadhouse/lodge with a vintage car theme was the perfect place to end our 8-day road trip through the south of Namibia. Here you will find rooms, a camp site, restaurant, fuel station and even a swimming pool – totally unexpected!

Entrance to the Canyon Roadhouse

Rooms and swimming pool

We set up our rooftop tent one last time. After the wind had blown quite strong during our visit to the Fish River Canyon, it was now a calm evening at Canyon Roadhouse – needless to say, we were very happy about this.

Our campsite for the night

We decided to enjoy a drink at the bar to conclude our epic journey through the south of Namibia. Come along and enjoy the vintage cars found both inside and out Canyon Roadhouse – it’s almost like strolling through a museum.

Vintage cars in the garden

“Fill up on Smiles”

Old motorbike

Quiver tree sprouts from the hood of a rusty car

Inside the restaurant

Vintage cars

Vespa

Old telephone and cold drink fridge

Bar decorated with number plates

G&T (and Spicy Cherry Liqueur to take back home)

Although the restaurant’s food looked really good, we decided to have a ‘braai’. With wood and ‘braai’ packs from the restaurant, we walked to our campsite to watch the Namibian sunset one last time while sitting next to our campfire.

Heading back to our campsite

Last campfire on our road trip

Close to our fire was an insect enjoying its last meal for the day

Food on the fire

Our last meal in Namibia

We didn’t talk much while sitting by the fire – in that moment it was completely enough. Our road trip was over and Namibia will now always be part of our story.

In our next (and final) post on this Namibian series, we begin our last day on the road with an incredibly beautiful sunrise and end a long day with the majestic Table Mountain on the horizon.