May 2025

Namibian Wild Horses & Garub Train Station

After we witnessed the beautiful sunrise at Kwelanga River Lodge near Vioolsdrif (read here), it was finally time to cross the border into Namibia.

We had a very smooth border crossing. After we had our passports stamped, the customs officer on the Namibian side asked if we had anything to declare. Besides two bottles of wine, we had nothing else to declare. Without searching our vehicle, she then wished us a safe and joyful journey in Namibia. After just 20 minutes, we were on Namibian soil.

Crossing the Orange River at the border post

We are officially in Namibia

If there is one thing that travellers in Namibia, who drive their own or rented vehicles, should remember, it is not to miss the opportunity to stop at a petrol/gas station. The distances between towns are quite far and not all towns have petrol stations.

There are two petrol stations close to each other just after crossing the border from South Africa at Vioolsdrif. We filled up our bakkie and also bought toasties at the ever-popular Wimpy restaurant. Now we were ready to start our journey!

Wimpy’s favourite toasties – ham, cheese & tomato

We had to drive 452km/280 miles to Lüderitz, of which about a third was on a dirt road along the Orange River. This road was apparently not in the best condition, especially after the river had recently overflowed its banks due to the heavy rain. However, we heard from another traveller that it was still drivable and looked forward to this stretch.

Dirt road along the Orange River

A full, but calm Orange River

Quiver trees (“Kokerbome”) are indigenous trees in Southern Africa. These trees are extremely tough and can live for more than 80 years and grow to heights of about 7 – 9 meters. We are always happy to find them in nature and have seen several along our route next to the river.

Beautiful Quiver tree

Another Quiver tree

The river was calm in some places and we could see the reflection of the mountains in it. But suddenly it would change and then there were significant rapids. We could now understand why it was still too dangerous for river rafting enthusiasts to venture onto the river.

Calm Orange River

Fast flowing water in other places on the river

The Fish River is the longest inland river in Namibia and eventually joins the Orange River. At one point, we crossed the Fish River, very close to the Orange River, over a low-water bridge. A few days ago, the water was flowing over the bridge, but we were lucky that the river had now receded.

Low-water bridge over the Fish River

Looking towards South Africa over the fast-flowing Orange River

There were some places where we could see that the road had washed away. Here we just drove very slowly and made sure that our bakkie’s wheels did not come too close to the river’s edge.

An almost washed away road next to the Orange River

After about two hours on the dirt road, it veered away from the river. We followed the directions towards the C13 and to Rosh Pinah where a tarred road took us all the way to Lüderitz.

Taking the road towards Rosh Pinah

Although we were on a tar road on the last part of today’s route, it did not mean at all that we would not see beautiful scenes. We stopped a few times to admire the vastness of the area.

Stopping next to the road to take in our surroundings

After we refuelled our bakkie in Rosh Pinah, we drove another 168km/104 miles to the small town of Aus. It was now only 126km/78 miles to Lüderitz where we booked accommodation for the night.

The road between Aus and Lüderitz

The Wild Horses of Namibia:

It is believed that the core of the herd consisted of horses of the South African army, the German troops, and the Kreplin studs (with connection to the breeding station of Hansheinrich von Wolf at Duwisib Castle) that fled to freedom after a bombing attack. These horses have lived in this area for more than 100 years, without any human assistance.

They were first counted in 1985 and since then the horse population has fluctuated from 89 to 280 animals. Drought conditions can account for these fluctuations and are quite normal.

We read earlier that we can see the famous Wild Horses of Namibia near Aus, on the way to Lüderitz (if we’re lucky). So, now it was time to set our eyes on the field next to the road.

Where are the Wild Horses of Namibia?

It wasn’t long before we saw a horse standing in the field close to the road. “Is this a wild horse?” I asked Berto. We immediately stopped to take a photo – thinking that this might be the only wild horse we would see.

A (wild?) horse next to the road

However, it was not long before we saw a turnoff to the right with a sign “Wild Horses.” The dirt road leads to a small parking area and watering hole for the horses. There is even a wooden shelter for visitors to protect them from the fierce Namibian sun while they search for horses.

Road that leads to a shelter from where the Wild Horses can be seen

It turned out that we chose a good day to see the horses. Not only were there quite a few at the watering hole, but many were standing around the wooden shelter – probably to seek a bit of shade themselves because it was such a hot day.

A few horses at the waterhole

Wild horses in the desert landscape

We have heard from many people who visited this area that they did not see the wild horses or that they could only see them from a distance. So, we could hardly believe our luck. There were no other people around and for an hour, Berto and I could literally walk among the horses. It was quiet, except for the occasional neighing of a horse – such a serene experience. Here are just a few photos (of probably 100 that we took):

Wild Namibian Horses

At the watering hole

Perfect backdrop for these gorgeous animals

Some horses were lying on the sand

They looked quite healthy

Resting in the shade of the wooden shelter

A lazy afternoon for the Wild Horses of Namibia

Only a few meters from us

Hard to believe how they could survive when you look at the landscape

A last look at the herd close to the watering hole

We were a bit awestruck as we climbed back into our bakkie – being able to walk among the wild horses was amazing.

The next day we would drive back on the same road from Lüderitz to our camping site and we hoped to see the horses again. (Spoiler alert: These are not the last photos of the Wild Horses of Namibia – if you want to see our second visit to these stunning horses, click here.)

Beautiful tree close to the Wild Horses

Garub Train Station:

The Garub train station is just a few kilometers from the Wild Horses – on the left side of the road when you’re travelling to Lüderitz. There is only a dilapidated building, a rusty water tank, and a few dead trees – yet it is so picturesque.

Old sign

Rusty water tank

We did not know anything about this crumbling train station. While Berto was taking photos, I accidentally managed to get internet reception and thus found out more about this station. (By the way, cell phone reception is not something easily found in the desert.)

Dilapidated house (and a dead tree)

Apparently Garub train station was built in 1906 to provide the transport locomotives with water on the Lüderitz to Keetmanshoop line (until steam locomotives were replaced by diesel).

During the war years (1914/15) much of the railway and station building was destroyed by the fleeing German troops with the Union soldiers in slow pursuit, having to repair the line as they went.

Railway line and rusty water tank

Several boreholes were built to supply the trains with water. One of these historic boreholes still exists today as a resource for the wild horses we saw earlier.

A railway that has long since fallen into decay

Once a refuge for weary soldiers, but now just another old building in the desert

Three in one shot: Rusty water tank, old building and dead tree

Our visit to the Garub train station was pure coincidence, but it was a great conclusion to our day in the desert.

Just us, a dead tree (and wild horses in the distance) in the Namib desert

Our first day in Namibia brought many surprises and we couldn’t wait to see what else lay ahead for us. Oh, and I won’t blame you if you are already in love with Namibia.

In our next post, we arrive in the coastal town of Lüderitz, which offers its own hidden gems (read here).