January 2025

Our weekend at Mansfield Private Reserve came to an end all too quickly. After enjoying the tranquility and wildlife of the reserve and also paying a quick visit to Port Alfred, it was time to pack up and head home.

But first there were a few other places we wanted to show my mother. One cannot drive to Port Alfred and not visit the “World’s Biggest Pineapple Building”.

World’s Biggest Pineapple Building:

My mum at the World’s Biggest Pineapple Building

We wrote about our visit to this unusual building in 2023 (read here). This 16.5m high pineapple building is just 15km from Port Alfred and definitely worth a visit if you are in the area.

Our reason for visiting Bathurst was actually to enjoy lunch at a very special place, but more on this later in the post.

History of Bathurst:

Bathurst is a very small village and dates back to the early 1800s. It’s chief claim to fame is that it was the early administrative centre established by the British Government for the 1820 British Settlers who were sent to the district as a buffer between the Cape Colony and the Xhosa pastoralists who were migrating southwards and westwards along the coast (Source: Wikipedia).

Before we could sit down for lunch, there were two places we wanted to visit that are closely related to the British Settlers, namely The Toposcope and an old Anglican church.

The Toposcope:

This place, on a scenic hill outside Bathurst, marks the spot from where the 1820 Settlers were posted to their locations. The stones in the wall to build the Toposcope were taken from ruins of original Settler homes.

Toposcope in Bathurst

The Toposcope was inaugurated on Settlers day, 2 September 1968 and declared as a National Monument.

The Toposcope

The plagues reflecting the distance (in miles) of the British location from the Toposcope, as well as the Settlers’ names, ships and departure port of the parties arriving in the Eastern Cape in 1820.

In 2018 a terrace was built to commemorate the Xhosa Chiefs who lived in the Eastern Cape at the time of arrival of the British Settlers in 1820. The plagues here indicate their names, chiefdoms, direction and distance to their kraals at that time.

Terrace to commemorate the Xhosa Chiefs in 1820

View from The Toposcope

St John’s Anglican Church:

Our next stop was at the St John’s Anglican Church in town. This is the oldest unaltered Anglican church in South Africa. The first service in this church was held on 1 January 1838.

St John’s Anglican Church

This was a sanctuary in the Frontier Wars of 1834, 1846 and 1851 for hundreds of Settlers.

Graves of British Settlers

Thomas Hartley was buried here with his two wives

Graves of the Baker Family from late 1800s to early 1900s

As always, I found lovely flowers in the church yard

After getting a glimpse into the history of Bathurst, we drove to the town centre. Many of the original Settler houses and other buildings have been preserved and there remains much of the look and feel of an English village of the early 19th century.

Old book shop

Old buildings in the main road of Bathurst

After walking around and exploring Bathurst all morning, we decided to enjoy coffee at one of the coffee shops. Next door That Coffee Place is a gift shop with lovely gifts and artwork, which made it the perfect break before lunch.

That Coffee Place

The Pig and Whistle Inn:

Finally, it was time for the reason we actually came to Bathurst – lunch at the famous The Pig and Whistle Inn.

The Pig and Whistle Inn

The Pig and Whistle Inn

The Pig and Whistle Inn, established in 1832, is the oldest continuously licensed pub in South Africa. It was built in 1821 by Thomas Hartley, a blacksmith who came from Nottinghamshire with the Settlers.

A pub since 1832

Inside The Pig and Whistle

The Bathurst Inn, as it was originally known, had a name changed about 100 years after it was established. The soldiers from the Royal Air Force stationed nearby decided to name the pub after their local pub in England. Thus, the Bathurst Inn became The Pig and Whistle Inn.

The Inn has 10 bedrooms and the restaurant offers traditional English food and Sunday roasts.

Inside the Inn

Sitting area inside the Inn

Old world charm

Because it was such a hot day, we chose a table outside on the veranda of the restaurant. While two musicians provided soothing music, we ordered our Sunday roasts – which were delicious.

Outside veranda

Starter

Sunday roast

The musicians (and my mum at the back)

We had such a lovely day in the historic town of Bathurst. All that’s left now is for us to spend an hour (or two) in The Pig and Whistle pub and then book a room in the Inn … sooner rather than later.