April 2024

Same place, but different experience

After the luxury of our 5-star stay in The Capitol Zimbali Resort in Ballito a week ago (read here), it was time to pack our tent again and go camping. We were back on familiar ground and looking forward roughing it a bit.

With our last camping experience at Yellow Sands being so enjoyable (read here), we decided to return there. This time we got a camp site next to the river and not one with a sea view like last time. And to be honest, we loved our river camp!

Our view of the mouth of the Kwelera River

With Yellow Sands so close to East London (it’s only 37km/23 miles), we didn’t leave our house until late afternoon. It was still light enough to set up our tent and take a stroll to the river before the sun’s last rays disappeared behind the hills.

Kayaks on the river bank

It may not be a fancy hotel room, but we love our camp site

It was interesting to see how the river became fuller during high tide. The river has now almost reached our campsite.

High tide pushed the river right up to our camp site

There were a few other campers nearby, but it was wonderfully quiet. We sat by the fire and watched a crescent moon rise. After dinner we went into our tent and listened to the distant roar of the waves as we fell asleep.

Crescent moon

Camp fire

Dinner

The next morning brought lovely sunshine. It was windless after blowing strongly at times throughout the night.

Lovely morning at Yellow Sands

The ablution facilities at the river campsites are slightly more rustic than those at the main camp. The showers here are roofless – if you look up while showering, you’ll see blue sky and tree branches (even a few birds and maybe a monkey). However, there is hot water and Yellow Sands’ staff kept it clean and tidy while we camped there.

Pathway to ablution facilities and rustic shower

We enjoyed rusks and coffee/tea before putting on our walking shoes. We first walked down to the river and could see how the water had risen with high tide during the night.

Early morning rusks and hot drinks

Kwelera River with high tide

There is a path in the forest to the beach (to avoid walking through the water at high tide). We followed this path until we reached the beach. From here we could walk along the river to where it flows into the sea.

Path along the Kwelera River

We had lovely views over the river

Reflections in the river

River with the waves of the Indian Ocean visible in the background

Path through the forest (with a few obstacles)

Autumn has arrived in the Southern Hemisphere

We could catch a glimpse of the river through the tree branches

Finally, the forest path leads onto the beach

It was lovely to walk on the soft sand along the river. We stood still for a few moments to watch the sea push water up into the river.

Kwelera River

Sea water meets river water

The beach was just as beautiful as when we were here a month ago. We didn’t go for a long walk along the sea this time, but instead sat on the beach for about half an hour. It was nice to just watch the waves coming and going while the sun shone warmly on us.

Beach at Yellow Sands

Waves break on the beach

We slowly started walking back to our camp site. The tide was changing and, instead of walking through the forest again, we could now walk all the way next to the river to our tent.

Boat next to the river

Patterns in the sand

Our tent on the other side of the river (as seen from the sea)

Path along the river

Interesting tree stump in the river

The tide has now turned again

Back at our camp site, we were ready for a late breakfast. After collecting a few cans of food and other ingredients, we were able to whip up a tasty dish. Our Yellow Sands Riverside Brunch was our Dish of the Week #24 a few weeks ago (read here).

Yellow Sands Riverside Brunch

After we finished eating and washing up, we each sat down in our camp chairs with a book. Small birds came to sit near us to eat bread crumbs on the grass. It was such a peaceful time by the river – that’s why we enjoy camping so much.

Much later we noticed people down by the river and we walked over to see what they were up to. With low tide it was now possible to walk to the middle of the river. It was actually weird walking in the middle of the river and knowing that in a few hours all the small islands would be under water again.

Low tide at the Kwelera River

Walking in the middle of the river

The camp site as seen from the middle of the river

Fisherman’s boat on dry land in the middle of the river

After walking in the river for an hour, we decided to make a fire and ‘braai’ a few snacks. All this fresh air is making us hungry!

Jalapeño poppers and Angel kisses (and R&R)

Snacks on the fire

We decided to go for a late afternoon stroll. We followed the road to the main camp and chatted with a few campers. A couple who are long-stay campers invited us for a drink. They will camp at Yellow Sands for the next three months and then move on to the next campsite. They’re retired and decided that this was a good way to explore the country.

Road to the main camp

A hadada and guineafowl

Back at our tent, the sun was setting. We heard from quite a few campers that there was a big thunderstorm coming and we could see dark clouds starting to gather. Later in the evening we saw lightning over the sea and heard thunder.

We weren’t very hungry after our late afternoon snacks and only made grilled sandwiches on the fire.

Low tide again and a storm approaching while we sat next to the fire

We could hear the thunder rumbling through the night, but luckily it didn’t rain. We decided to pack up early the next morning before it started raining. Just after we loaded the last camping boxes into the ‘bakkie’, the heaven opened and it started to rain.

Dark clouds in the sky when we woke up

As we drove back home, I said to Berto that I wonder when our luck with the weather would turn on our camping weekends. Well, I guess we’ll find out in next week’s post!