Easter Weekend 2024
Coral Divers and Sodwana Bay beach
We have already published a couple of posts about our visits to Sodwana Bay. This is our favourite place in South Africa where we go when Berto wants to go scuba diving while I take long walks on the pristine beach and relax with my toes in the pure white sand.
Previous times our visits always fell on December months, but this was our first time in Sodwana Bay during an Easter weekend. Our flight from East London to Durban only took an hour, but driving the 353km/219 miles to Sodwana Bay in a rental car took us more than four hours – Easter traffic!
As we approached King Shaka International Airport in Durban, we could already see from the plane how long the queues of cars on the N2 highway were at the toll gates. However, with loads of patience (and tasty snacks) we reached Sodwana Bay in good spirit.

Long queue at the toll gate

Threatening thunderclouds on our way
Sodwana Bay is on the KwaZulu Natal north coast, between St. Lucia and Lake Sibhayi. Our choice of accommodation was Coral Divers in the Sodwana Bay National Park which is situated within the beautiful iSimangaliso Wetland Park. Whenever we arrive at Coral Divers, an absolute tranquility overwhelms us. We were last here at the end of 2021 and definitely missed Sodwana Bay!

Our chalet between the trees at Coral Divers


Home for the next few days
We only had time to drop our luggage in our chalet before Berto went to attend his first dive info session which is held every evening at 18:30 in the communal area. With his dives booked for the next few days, we raised our glasses and cheers on a long-overdue visit to Sodwana Bay.

Cheers!
It was lovely to be back on the beach of Sodwana Bay. After Berto did his first dive, we went for a long walk. It was pure joy to soak our feet in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean.

Coral Divers’ dive operation on the beach of Sodwana Bay


On the beach

And that’s how you relax on the beach
It’s always fun to hop on Coral Divers’ ‘taxi’ which regularly drives between our accommodation and the beach – a tractor with a trailer.


Taxi of Coral Divers
Back at Coral Divers we could cool off in their sparkling pool and then relax with a bottle of wine over a delicious lunch.


Pool and wine – that summer feeling


Lunch
It is important to remember that one should not feed the monkeys (even if they are looking at you with those big pleading eyes). They will not hesitate to grab food that is left unattended.

“Is that now lunch for two or three?”
One of the most enjoyable things at Coral Divers is dinner time. Big fires are lit where everyone can ‘braai’ and this is where strangers soon become friends.

‘Braai’ time


Traditional South African ‘braai’ meal
On the second day of diving we woke up to a thunderstorm. Not that it bothered the divers much – they were going to get wet anyway!

Diving equipment ready to be transported to the beach

Divers on Coral Divers’ ‘taxi’
I first enjoyed an orange juice and muffin in Coral Divers’ restaurant while I waited for the worst of the rain to subside. When I got down to the beach, it looked so beautiful with the threatening thunderclouds that I didn’t mind getting a little wet.

Thunderstorm at Sodwana Bay beach


Berto’s boat comes back from their dive
We ended the evening with a drink we’ve been wanting to have at Sodwana Bay for a long time – Tipo Tinto R&R. It’s a Rum & Raspberry spirit cooler drink that is particularly popular in Mozambique – with a cherry on top. Why does it feel like we’re on an island?

Tipo Tinto R&R
The next day the rain clouds moved away and families took the opportunity to relax in the rock pools. While Berto was diving, I went for a long walk on the beach to the Jesser Point Lighthouse. This is the second youngest lighthouse in South Africa and was first lit in 1986.

Rock pools at Sodwana Bay beach

Jesser Point Lighthouse
Dinner at Coral Divers was once again a wonderful time. Divers showed each other their photos and videos and we sat outside chatting until late. Life is good.


Dinner at Coral Divers
The last day of diving ended on a high note. Berto’s boat came across a school of dolphins as they came back from their dive. The divers swam with them for a while before returning to the beach. And although I didn’t see the dolphins, it was great to go for a long walk on the beach for the last time.


A last stroll on the beach at Sodwana Bay
We booked a table at Mseni Beach Lodge, just a short drive from Coral Divers for our last dinner in Sodwana Bay.

Pool at Mseni Beach Lodge


View (and wine) from the deck of Mseni’s restaurant
The food at Mseni was absolutely delicious! I chose Dorado for my main course and can honestly say I have never eaten such a nice piece of fish.


Starters


Main course – the Dorado (on the right) was amazing
We had such a great meal and couldn’t eat dessert too. But then Berto showed me the dessert menu … Pastéis de Nata. You know me – we simply had to take 2 of these delicious tarts back to our chalet.

Pastéis de Nata
As we ate our Pastéis de Nata in bed that evening, we talked about our amazing time at Sodwana Bay and Coral Divers. This place is very close to our hearts and we hope to return sooner rather than later.
Ek het heerlik na jou fotos gelê en kyk, Corna. Self was ek nog net een keer op Sodwana, jare gelede. Dit was ñ vakansie wat ek altyd sal onthou. Die strande daarrond lyk steeds so wonderlik soos toe.🤗
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Ons eerste keer by Sodwana was in 2011 en ek en Berto het juis nou weer daaroor gesels dat daar werklik nog niks verander het van daardie tyd af nie. Aan die een kant is dit waarskynlik ‘n goeie ding, want ‘n mens wil die natuur so onaangeraak as moontlik laat. En aan die ander kant is daar soveel geleenthede om dit te ontwikkel (en in die proses werksgeleenthede te skep) … maar sal dit dan nog so ‘n paradys wees? Ek’s bly jy het die foto’s geniet Una 🤗.
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I am very envious! Mel
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I think Sodwana is the diving paradise of South Africa. And of course, it’s a bonus that you can also find one of the most beautiful beaches here!
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It really ticks all the boxes!
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Beautiful
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Thanks, it’s indeed a beautiful beach – pristine and a divers’ paradise.
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Sodwana Bay looks idyllic Corna and so nice that you can relax and enjoy coastal walks whilst Berto is diving. How long is he usually away for on each day’s dive? The food and cocktails look delicious too. I hadn’t realised that motorists need to pay to use motorways in South Africa. Is this just on a few roads or quite widespread? Hope you have a good week. M.
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Sodwana Bay is truly a piece of paradise on the North Coast. It is hidden and mostly only divers who come here. It is not overdeveloped, which surely makes it one of the most beautiful places in South Africa. Berto’s dives are usually an hour long and it takes them half an hour in and out with the boat – so ample time for me to walk around the beach. The toll gates are only on some of the main highways (there aren’t many and it’s not everywhere in the country either) and the fee isn’t much either. But at least those sections of the road are well maintained, so we’re not complaining about this. Have a fab week Marion.
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Good to know about the road tolls Corna. It’s best to pay a small amount to avoid pot holes, delays and possible punctures!
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I actually wish there were more toll gates. In the Western Cape Province, road conditions are generally good, but some of the other provinces’ roads are sometimes quite challenging (gently put)!
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I love your photos from Sodwana Bay and how it offers an incredibly long stretch of pristine beach for anyone to explore and walk. I also love the idea of going for a dive into the underwater world to discover bold and bright coral reefs and colourful colonies of tropical fish. Thanks for sharing, and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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I’m glad you liked our photos of the beautiful Sodwana Bay Aiva. It really is as beautiful (if not more beautiful) than the photos depict. Berto loves diving and this is probably the perfect way for him to relax and shut off from the rest of the world. And I can understand it when I look at all the beautiful and colourful marine life on his camera after each dive.
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A fabulous getaway for you both. My eldest son and daughter lived in Durban for a few years and I have been there, but never made it north. The wetlands are quite something I believe.
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We’ve only just come back, but we’re ready to go again! Sodwana Bay is truly so beautiful and pristine. I hope this doesn’t change anytime soon. We always meet so many divers from Durban there – for them it’s only a weekend outing – lucky people! We just always drive to get to Sodwana Bay and don’t spend enough time appreciating the wetlands … when is one ever going to have enough time to see all these beautiful places 😊!
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That’s what retirement is for!
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Or early retirement … 😂
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Even better…
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That stretch of beach by the lighthouse has me smitten, and how wonderful to swim with dolphins!
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I loved that stretch of beach all the way to the lighthouse. Most people occupied the other side of the beach – so I had this section of the beach all to myself! Yes, somehow it always happens that Berto ends up with his last dive between dolphins (that was also the case in 2021 when we were last at Sodwana Bay). The perfect way to end a diving holiday.
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looks like a nice getaway. I remember your previous posts from Berto diving there. Sounds tempting! Maggie
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Yes, Sodwana Bay is definitely a favourite place for us to visit in South Africa. It is classified as one of the best diving sites in the world … reason enough for Berto not to complain when I ask when are we going there again!
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Spectacular photos as always!
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Thank you so much 🙂. Sodwana Bay’s beauty makes it easy to take great photos!
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I can see why you both love this place, it has something to offer each of you!
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So true Sarah, that’s probably why we like Sodwana Bay so much. We both get the opportunity to do some of our favourite things!
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What a thrill it must have been to swim with dolphins! I’m guessing that’s not a common occurrence? The woman with her chair in the surf has mastered the art of relaxing at the beach! And your chalet looks perfectly comfortable and cozy. I’ve started adding the places you visit to my map app, just in case we visit SA someday. Fingers crossed! Lovely post Corna.
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Swimming with the dolphins was a big highlight for the divers – Berto is lucky he’s been able to experience it three times now. But you’re right, it doesn’t happen often … and that’s why it’s so special when it does. Ha, if I had my camping chair with me, I would have sat down next to that woman 🙂. She seemed so happy to just sit there and look out over the ocean – perfect! Oh yes, I really hope that your travels might one day lead to South Africa … I’m sure there are quite a few places you guys will really enjoy.
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I would be there too; what a perfect location. Terry has very fond memories of his time in SA; I would love to experience it someday too.
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I would love to have swum with dolphins! I’m a fairly rubbish swimmer, though and couldn’t even get snorkelling right. My mask always flooded and I ended up spluttering. I envied people who could view the wonders of the deep and I look forward to Berto’s pictures. Still I would have enjoyed walking on that beach, even in the rain. I enjoyed watching thunderstorms out over the ocean. I hope the traffic was better when you drove back!
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The dolphins are always a highlight (and for some reason they love to swim in front of the boat). That’s usually all the divers talk about when they’ve had such an interaction on their dive! We are currently working through the hundreds of videos of Berto’s dives to turn them into photos – everything is just so beautiful, I don’t know which to choose. Yes, fortunately the traffic was a lot better … we didn’t return until a few days after the Easter weekend, which probably contributed to less traffic on the main routes.
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Oh my goodness, it looks so beautiful. Plus wine and Pastéis de Nata – perfect!
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Ha, I’m not asking very much to be content and happy Hannah! The beach, wine and Pastéis de Nata 😂 … Sodwana Bay really delivers every time!
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Another special place close to your hearts. No wonder you missed going there!
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If we had stayed closer to Sodwana Bay, I’m sure we would have been there every weekend! But I also think the fact that one has to make an effort to get there, makes it so special.
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Wow, this looks like a great place to visit. One does not need to go to the Maldives or Seychellees. We have gorgeous places like this right here in South Africa!
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Isn’t it wonderful that we have so many beautiful places in South Africa? Berto dived in places like Egypt and Malta (in the Mediterranean Sea) and he mentioned that coral and marine life are much more beautiful here on the north coast of South Africa. And Sodwana Bay is ranked as one of the top diving sites in the world … so we don’t have to travel very far to experience this!
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Wonderlik om te sien daar is van die skaars Samango ape by Sodwana, en ek kan nie wag om Berto se onderwater foto’s te sien nie!
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Ek het nogal gewonder watter tipe aap dit is (vir my is ‘n aap ‘n aap 😂). Baie dankie dat jy dit vir ons uitgeken het! Daar is ‘n magdom videos wat Berto onderwater geneem het – die een so mooi soos die ander. En nou is dit my taak om deur almal te gaan en oor te sit in foto’s … maar op hierdie manier beleef ek darem ook ‘n bietjie van die onderwater “gevoel”.
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Seems like it was worth battling traffic to reach Sodwana Bay. Your chalet looks so comfy and clean. I got a good laugh when I saw the Coral Divers’ taxi! Beautiful shots of the beach and the food you ate.
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I love Coral Divers’ taxi — especially when it’s full of divers. The stories you hear there are always so funny. Sodwana Bay truly has one of the most beautiful beaches and we can’t wait for our next visit. Of course … eating well and enjoying an R&R cocktail just makes it better 🙂!
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I want to live there, what a great place to see. Even your chalet looks great!
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I certainly wouldn’t mind living there. It’s a bit of a mission to get there, but that’s probably what makes it so exceptional … it’s away from the everyday busy life.
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Oh, wonderful post. I can feel how much love and tenderness you have for this place. Beach walks and lovely food, the experience certainly seems worth the trouble of surviving that awful traffic. Mozambique.: Tipo Tinto R&R – I’ve made a mental note of this, it looks so delicious. Looking forward to Berto’s photos from his dives. What a great ending for him to come across dolphins, that must’ve been a very special moment.
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I’m glad you can tell by our post how much we love Sodwana Bay – it’s truly one of our special places to get away from all the city noises. To our surprise, we ran into R&R in our liquor store (we went looking for it, of course). We took it with us on our camp weekend recently (it’s now my camp cocktail). Yes, swimming among the dolphins is always a highlight – sometimes Berto will swim with them and other times he just watches them from the boat – they are such gracious animals. Such fond memories of our time at Sodwana … whether it’s on the beach or under the water!
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This looks like a wonderful place for a vacation, whether you’re a diver or not. Yikes on the traffic, though. But it looks like it was worth the wait!
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The traffic isn’t usually so hectic, but Easter weekends are always a good time to avoid the main highways (we need to remember this next year)! But adding a few extra days to a regular weekend was just too tempting for us. And you’re right, Sodwana Bay is one of those places where both diver and non-diver can have a great time!
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