We all have these photos … throwback photos!
It’s described as ‘nostalgia-inducing pictures … from a different era of your life”.
Every Thursday we will throw a few photos of ‘way back when’ on our blog. Why on a Thursday? Because it’s just a day away from the weekend … and we love weekends!
You are welcome to join in or just enjoy the photos (#TB Thursday).
May/June 2016 – West Coast and Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, South Africa
We mentioned in our previous TB Thursday post that we had a rough road ahead of us in today’s post.
We can break this day’s road into three sections:
- De Hoop Campsite to Sendelingsdrift: 45km
- Sendelingsdrift to Eksteensfontein: 105km
- Eksteensfontein to The Growcery (our accommodation): 41km
So, in theory it was only 191km (118 miles). But we drove a solid 8 hours to get to our last night’s accommodation, The Growcery. Although it was a dirt road, we certainly didn’t foresee it being so difficult to drive.
But first we had to leave the park. We decided to drive out of the park on a different road than the one we entered the park. This took us on the most technical pass of the Richtersveld, the Domorogh Pass.

The road was initially quite easy to drive

We stopped just before the Domorogh Pass


The views from the top of the pass

We even saw some colourful flowers (these may be ‘vygies’, a type of succulent flower)
Even though the pass is quite short (it’s only about 1.4km long), it’s a very slow ride into the valley. On the way down, we stopped at one of the viewpoints to admire the stunning landscape.

Mountains that look like big scoops of ice-cream
When we reached the bottom of the Domorogh Pass, we stopped for a coffee break, before we had to drive another hour to leave the park.

Bottom of the Domorogh Pass

Coffee time in nature
On the way out of the park we saw another ‘gemsbok’ (oryx). He looked back at us and then disappeared over the hill.


Easy road and lone ‘gemsbok’
The last pass we had to drive (in the park), was the Helskloof Pass. It’s a long, but not difficult pass. The most distinctive feature of this pass is the presence of the unique purple aloe known as the Helskloof Aloe (‘Aloe Pearsonii’). This aloe grows in the Helskloof and nowhere else on earth!

A last look at the dramatic mountainous desert with the Helskloof Aloe in the foreground

At the exit of the Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
Once out of the park, we thought the final stretch to our accommodation would be a smooth ride. Well, it was … initially.


Open road on the way to Eksteensfontein
The road gradually changed from smooth to almost impassable. The last 20km to Eksteensfontein took us almost 2 hours to drive! It was a gruelling drive and we were thankful for our 4×4 car! It was clear that the road was not maintained for a very long time.

Yes … that’s the road

Spectators along the road

Closer to Eksteensfontein the road got better again
After the road seemed to get better, we stopped and got out to stretch our legs. It was the worst road we drove on this 4×4 trip … and there was still more than 40km left to drive before we would reach our destination for the evening.

Time to stretch those legs
In our next TB Thursday post, we’ll take you on the last part of this day – we had another mountain pass waiting for us. And then we reached what felt like an oasis!
Note: We drove this very same road again in September 2020 (4 years later) and it was then a much easier road to drive. Best to find out from the locals what the condition of the road is before attempting to drive along here!
Looks pretty rough and remote on the 20kms in 2 hours section. Did you see anyone else out there?
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No, not a single soul! Just the cows … we were slightly worried what would happen if we got stuck. But luckily we made it safely to Eksteensfontein!
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There’s no way I’d get my husband to drive something like this, Corna. He’d rather watch it on a movie.
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Haha Jo, that’s so funny! To be honest, it almost felt like a movie … we sometimes doubted if it was an actual road! But all’s well that ends well 🙂.
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🤣💙
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Goeie aarde, dit is op ‘n manier verskriklik mooi vir hierdie vrou wat van grasvelde en kleur hou. Ek en manlief moet dit ook beproef, maar ek is nie regtig een vir grondpaaie nie. Gaan plan moet maak, dit lyk absoluut hemels.
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Oe Christa, jy moet die Richtersveld nou sien … dis net kleurvolle veldblomme oral na die onlangse goeie reen! Maar jy’s reg, wanneer die Richtersveld lyk soos op hierdie foto’s, is dit ‘n ander soort mooi. Ons het groot geword met net grondpaaie en ry dit altyd met die nodige respek (nooit vinnig nie, al lyk dit in ‘n goeie toestand). Hemels? Beslis!
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Ons ry een keer per maand so ent grondpad na ons rivierhuis toe. En dan is dit die ene stof soos wat boere op daardie paaie jaag. Miskein sal ek meer daarvan hou op stil paaier?
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Ja, ek verkies beslis die stiller grondpaaie … dan het mens die hele pad vir jouself 😄.
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Dit is so waar
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Wow, two hours to travel 20kms; yikes! It looked pretty much deserted along the way as well, except for the curious cows. Good to know that the road was eventually smooth out. However, it certainly does look incredibly beautiful. Lovely memories, Corna!
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I think it was on this day that we learned to have a lot of patience when driving a bad dirt road! Thanks Tricia, it’s rugged beauty … and there’s just something incredibly beautiful about the “nothingness” in this part of the country.
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Thank goodness you had a 4×4 otherwise you’d never have made it. It’s astonishing what type of terrain those vehicles can cope with. I’ve only ever driven one in Australia and I loved it (though at first I was terrified by its size – a land cruiser! 😂)
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Oh yes, the Aussies love their land cruisers! But you’re right, they’re huge – our little Suzuki Jimny will fit inside a land cruiser 😁. There was no way a normal 2×4 sedan would be able to drive on this road – it was the first time we tested our Jimny’s endurance (and it passed with flying colours).
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👏💐❤️
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Such a beautiful part of South Africa … even with THAT road 😄.
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That cow is saying “Oh look, guys, tourists!” It is quite something to be the only people in such a wilderness. Back in 2000 I took my dad to Utah and drove on some very dodgy roads. It felt a little irresponsible to take an 88 year old man on such an adventure but I was rather surprised at the state of the roads. However Dad seemed delighted and it was a great trip. Parts of this country are quite a lot like your photographs. Great little Jimny! Imagine a plant that grows nowhere else. Amazing.
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Haha 😁, I’m sure the cows also used the word “stupid” somewhere in that sentence! Oh wow, you were pretty brave to take your elderly dad on a trip like that … but hey, if he enjoyed it, it was all worth it! I’m actually kind of annoyed with myself that we didn’t get a close-up of that aloe plant – it’s so unique. Indeed, hats off to our feisty little Jimny!
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That’s solitude for you with not another vehicle in sight. I wonder what would happen if you broke down as I don’t expect you would have a phone signal!
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Ha, you’re right Marion, there is no cellphone reception. I suppose someone will have to walk to get help 😉. That’s why it’s actually better to drive these backroads in a group … but where’s the fun in that?
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Yikes, hard on you and the car.
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That’s for sure! But it was a good ice breaker to see what our Jimny (and us) is capable of. And since then we have driven worse roads 😉. Berto always says: “Each trip prepares us for the next one”!
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Sien die mooi in niks. Hoor die stilte. Jinne, kan net dink hoe lekker hierdie was, Corna.
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My ouma het altyd gepraat van die “niks staan knieghoogte, maar dis so mooi” 😉. Jy’s reg Elsabe … dis die stilte wat mens onthou!
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The scenery is breathtaking! Did you wonder if those cows were laughing at you as you bumped over that practically-non-existent road? I think I saw at least one of them smiling.
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Haha Kellye, it was more of a grin if you ask me 😉! But we would never have seen the beautiful rugged landscape if it wasn’t for that non-existent road … so, we resignedly accepted the cows’ sarcastic attitude!
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Wonderlik dat julle julself die kans gegee het om te stop, bene te rek en die omgewing rustig te bespied. Dis “tough” op die ou wat moet bestuur op sulke paaie want dis te gevaarlik vir hom om rond te kyk, en dan mis hy uit op al die mooi langs die pad (ek praat uit eie ondervinding!)
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Ek sal nog op die makliker grondpaaie bestuur, maar wanneer dit by bergpasse en “low range 4WD” kom, is ek alte graag die passasier! Jy’s reg Dries, ons stop graag om soms net so bietjie asem te skep en bene te rek wanneer die pad bietjie rof is. Dis tog deel van die reis (en nie noodwendig die eindbestemming nie, ne)?
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Dis so ongelooflik mooi daar! Ek geniet die uitgestrekte stilte en die omgewing en als wat mens daar kan sien as jy stop, bene rek en rond kyk. Die paaie is woes, ne! Dis deel van die hele ondervinding.
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Og Aletta, daardie stilte is iets wat ek nog nooit op enige ander plek gevind het nie! Soms moet ‘n mens die rowwe paaie ry om tot by die mooi te kom 😁. Soos jy daar sê, dis alles deel van die ondervinding.
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Beslis die moeite werd!
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Vastness, openness, mountain desert, steep hills, pointy rocks and narrow gaps… Looks like the Richtersveld is the rugged bad boy of 4×4 destinations. I love the rugged landscape even though it is harsh and not for the hesitant. Thanks for sharing and have a good day 🙂 Aiva xx
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Yes Aiva, this is definitely a different kind of beauty 🙂. Although the Richtersveld is such a remote and barren area, it is also a place of silence, peace and tranquility … and I hope that will never change. Thanks for stopping by, enjoy your weekend.
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Corna jong, hierdie keer weet ek nie…🤔😉☺️
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Ja-nee Una, hierdie een was effe rof! Maar jy weet mos hoe is mens … jy kyk terug en dink: “Eintlik was dit ‘n vreeslike mooi dag”. Natuurlik dink jy dit glad nie op daardie oomblik nie 😄.
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What I can never get over in your posts is just how BIG everything is, and how open. Most roads in the UK you can barely get 1 car down and so many are overgrown with trees or houses right up to the edge of the roadside now. It’s lovely to see roads like this.
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Those vast plains and long open roads are usually what we miss first when travelling abroad! You will understand that we get a bit claustrophobic in big cities 😉.
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What an adventure. Tough roads, dramatic landscapes (love those ice cream scoop mountains), plants that grow nowhere else on Earth and fleeting glimpses of wildlife. Oh, and what a place in which to stop and have coffee!
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Adventure in all its glory Leighton! This was our second last day on our first 4×4 trip with our Jimny … and I think it was quite appropriate 😉. Drinking coffee like this in the middle of nowhere – it’s the best!
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Sounds like a slow, yet incredibly scenic drive (and quite the adventure)!
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Definitely a day at a very slow pace! But you’re right Linda, the scenery was beautiful … all worth it.
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You gave your 4×4 a workout on this trip. It’s amazing how scenery with very little color can still have so much beauty. Thank you for sharing!
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You’re right Diane, we saw on this day that our little 4×4 is a true off-roader 🙂. And I’m glad that you can also see the beauty in this dry and arid part of South Africa!
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