March 2023

After the doctor gave Berto the green light regarding his recent health scare, we decided in March that it was time to put on our hiking boots again and go for a stroll in nature.

We heard from several people that the Kologha Forest just outside Stutterheim is worth a visit. So, we drove the 80km (49 miles) to Stutterheim early one Saturday morning to see how it looks there. On the way there we were reminded that there is a big German influence in this part of South Africa, as we drove past towns with names like Hamburg, Berlin and Frankfort.

Stutterheim:

Missionaries came to this area from the Berlin Missionary Society in the 1830s and soon it was decided to call the place “Stutterheim“, named after the commander Baron von Stutterheim.

Kolgoha Forest:

The beautiful Kologha Forest is on the outskirts of Stutterheim. This pristine indigenous forest is the second largest natural forest in South Africa after the famous Knysna Forest.

The starting point of hiking trails into the forest

There are 3 different day hiking routes (17km, 7km and 3km), as well as mountain bike and horse trails. I think you will be relieved to hear that we walked the shortest route, namely 3km. Since we haven’t hiked in a long time, we just wanted to enjoy being back in nature (and also want to make sure that Berto’s body is ready for hiking again).

Colour-coded footprints indicating the different routes

The blue route (3km) took us past the constant sound of trickling water. We had to cross several streams, which was really beautiful.

The first of many streams

The hike begins with an easy walk on a boardwalk along the river and under tall trees.

Boardwalk at the beginning of the trail

It was lovely to walk through these tall trees

We soon left the comfortable boardwalk and continued walking on a rough forest path that rose rather steeply in places. As this trail is covered by tall trees, the trail can be muddy (especially after rain) and the rocks and tree roots are covered with green moss. We had to be careful not to slip and fall. I would suggest bringing a hiking stick to help with balance – I picked up a “natural” one along the trail.

Green moss on a big rock and on tree roots

This trail meanders for 1.5km and leads to 3 waterfalls. The first two falls were very small, but the third one was lovely – we could hear it long before we could see it.

The first (very small) waterfall

After the first waterfall, the path became tricky where we had to walk over large slippery rocks and streams.

Slippery rocks in the pathway

Soft green moss on the rocks and trees

Walking on rocks over a stream

After the second (also very small) waterfall, it was only 10 minutes to the largest fall. On the way we once again looked up at the beautiful trees that reached high into the sky.

Surrounded by high trees

Getting over another stream

Water coming down to the third waterfall

Third waterfall

We sat here for a while enjoying the tranquility and natural beauty of this indigenous forest. How wonderful it was to be back in nature again.

Walking back from the waterfall and crossing the stream again

We took a short detour to get a closer look at a rock covered in moss. To our dismay we ended up on a rather muddy path. I admit, there might have been a sharp squeal (or two) from my end, but luckily, I managed to stay upright!

Muddy pathway

The rock we wanted to see from closer

On the way back, I saw a beautiful flower, a kind of wild iris and was surprised to see how delicate the little petals were. While I was looking at the flower, Berto called me over to see how fungi grow from a tree. Apparently, some of these are edible, but we preferred not to try, as our knowledge of wild mushrooms is very limited.

Flower and fungi

As we left the forest, I noticed a large tree and walked closer to read about it on the information stand. It is called a Kalander, also known as Outeniqua yellowwood. This species is the tallest and most spectacular tree of the forests.

Kalander tree

At the parking area we also saw a small cycad. I love seeing this tree in the wild, their woody trunk and pinnate leaves are beautiful and the fact that they grow very slowly and live very long makes it a special tree.

Cycad tree

Although we didn’t walk very far, it was quite challenging at times. But it was a lovely walk and we were delighted to be back in nature. We were also hungry after all the exercise and fresh air and drove back to Stutterheim where we found a lovely restaurant.

Vinkel & Koljander:

Vinkel & Koljander Restaurant

This place is actually a boutique restaurant and shop. In addition to a very extensive menu, there is a shop selling ladies boutique clothing, art, jams, rusks and much more. Outside is a lovely garden where you can sit in the shade of tall trees while enjoying your food. What a great place to end our hike.

Inside the restaurant

What a lovely restroom

Artwork for sale

We sat outside on the terrace

Berry Smoothie and Café Latte

Delicious plates of breakfast

I can only echo John Muir’s quote:

“And into the forest I go, to lose my mind and find my soul”.